Sophie
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Sophie
Expéditions
Conférences
Blog
Vidéos
Presse
EN

Sophie
Expéditions
Conférences
Blog
Vidéos
Presse
EN

bouddhanath Kathmandu

16 septembre 2021

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bouddhanath Kathmandu

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sophie_lavaud

Mountainer / Speaker / Author
Completed 14 x 8000m ⛰️ | 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇫🇷 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇨🇦 and 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇨🇭 woman
🧗 Climbing and Exploring Cordillera Blanca now!

Tocllaraju (6034 m) — Second Phase Completed! 🏔️
Cordillera Blanca, Peru 🇵🇪
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

We’re now safely back in Huaraz 🏘️ after completing our first major climb of the expedition — Tocllaraju (6034 m). A beautiful, technical mountain that gave us a full alpine experience 🧗‍♀️❄️.

With Cesar Rosales, we climbed in pure alpine style, with two technical ice axes 🪓🪓. It was cold 🥶, windy 🌬️, and we were completely alone on the route. We left high camp at 1:30 a.m. for 1000 meters elevation and were back at 10:00 a.m. — a fast and committed push on a stunning line ⛰️.

This climb was also a key step for the eDNA Glacier Project 🧬. Cesar and I successfully collected a sample at high camp (5100 m) 🧪, at the base of the glacier and at the summit of Tocllaraju. The samples made it back safely ✅ and we were able to process it further back at the refuge 🧊🏠. Big thank you to Cesar for his commitment and strong help 🙏👏.

I now have two eDNA kits remaining 🧳, which I will carry for the next big objective — Huascarán — as we move forward on the 18th 🗓️.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Tocllaraju #CordilleraBlanca #EDNAProject #GlacierPreservation #WomenWhoClimb #Mountaineering #Peru #AlpineStyle #GlaBBProject #MountainPath #NatureMetrics

Gasherbrum I (8080m) — 6 Years Ago Today!
🗓️ July 12, 2019 – July 12, 2025
🇫🇷 French version in the comment

G1 taught me something essential: that taking time is part of the climb. 🧭

When the weather isn’t ideal ☁️, when your body feels tired 😮‍💨, sometimes the best decision you can make is to pause. On G1, we spent more than 24 hours at Camp 3 🏕️, letting the body reset and regain strength. I remember doing something similar a few years earlier at Camp 2 on Broad Peak.

That kind of rest isn’t a delay — it’s part of success. ⛺
You wait, rest, and recover — and when the time is right, you move again. Clear-headed, steady, and strong 💪

Gasherbrum I remains a quiet but powerful memory.
A piece of wisdom that in mountaineering, as in life, momentum sometimes comes from knowing when to hold still. 🏔️

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #GasherbrumI #8000ers #AnniversaryClimb #WomenWhoClimb #Karakoram #PakistanExpeditions #Followership

Broad Peak - 8 Years Ago Today! 📅 July 11, 2017

Broad Peak - 8 Years Ago Today!
📅 July 11, 2017 – July 11, 2025
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

Today marks the 8th anniversary of my Broad Peak ascent (8051 m) 🏔️ — a climb I’ll always remember for the solitude and inner strength it demanded.
I remember the night of the summit push.
I left Camp 3 alone. Fida Ali, who was supposed to join me and bring the safety oxygen bottle, said he was coming, but I started moving ahead into the night. The summit push was long and cold ❄️ and I was alone on the route, no headlamps in sight, only the wind 🌬️ and the sound of my own breath. Mentally, it was a deep push — to hold it all together keeping the rhythm. A lesson of how much mountaineering is about managing yourself when you're all for yourself.

I waited and met Fida Ali at the col. We set off together but alone on the summit ridge. And all without oxygen. It was such a long and tiring night. But we made it! 💪

This climb remains special to me. And today, I’m sending all my energy to Dawa Sangay Sherpa who is now on Broad Peak 🙏

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #BroadPeak #8000ers #AnniversaryClimb #Mountaineering #WomenWhoClimb #Himalaya #PakistanExpeditions

Cordillera Blanca: Through the First Phase 🇵🇪
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

Just back in Huaraz 🏔️ after completing our first acclimatization rotation for the Cordillera Blanca phase of the eDNA Glacier Project 🧬. Together with my guide’s friend Edwin Puntillo 🧗 we summited Pisco (5752 m) 🏔️ — a fast climb to acclimatise and prepare for what’s next.
Despite arriving one day later, I was able to complete the rotation on schedule. From Lima 🏙️, sea level 🌊 to Pisco summit in 4 days! My head was dancing a little 😵‍💫 but thanks to coca leaves 🍃, we managed this beautiful first ascent ✨.
We're now hosting a meeting with the « boss » @Cesar Rosales Expedition 🗺️ to plan our next ascent and continue arranging the eDNA sampling kits, which are yet to arrive 📦.
The physical preparation is done ✅. Now, the real work begins 🔬.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CordilleraBlanca #eDNA #GlacierPreservation #MountainScience #Peru #WomenWhoClimb #Followership

For Klára Still hard to believe. Klára wasn’t

For Klára
Still hard to believe.

Klára wasn’t just another climber I met on an expedition. We shared something deeper. Over the years, we crossed paths on Himalayan mountains: Dhaulagiri , K2, Kanchenjunga, and spent many moments together in Kathmandu. We even spent 23 long hours together in Camp 3 on Gasherbrum I. We talked, shared ideas, thoughts, and laughter. Her presence was always something I looked forward to.

I had been following her progress on Nanga Parbat closely via inReach. And now, hearing this news is incredibly painful. Klára fell to her death on July 3 while descending from Camp III. She left too early. But she left while doing what she loved most.

She was a beautiful person, full of energy and joy, and being in a team with her meant moments of lightness, even in the most demanding times.

Klára, I will dearly miss you. My thoughts and heartfelt prayers go to your family and all those who loved you. You were a vital part of our mountaineering world.

- Sophie

#RememberingKlára #InMemory

Heading to Peru — A New Chapter Begins 🇵🇪✈️
version française 🇫🇷 en commentaire

Today, I leave for Peru — a destination I’ve long wanted to discover. While our original plan was different, and Dawa Sangay sadly couldn’t get a visa this time, we adjusted. Peru it is.

The journey will take us into the heart of the Cordillera Blanca 🏔️, one of the most iconic glaciated regions in South America 🌎. This isn’t just a climbing trip 🧗‍♀️ — it’s also the official launch of the eDNA Glacier Project 🧬❄️.

This global initiative — led by Nature Metrics in collaboration with Mountain Path and BloomUp — will collect environmental DNA (eDNA) around six iconic glaciers worldwide 🌐. Peru marks the start 📍. The project aims to establish a biodiversity baseline in these fragile, rapidly changing ecosystems 🌱🌡️. It’s about science 🧪, policy 📝, preservation 🌍 — and using mountaineering to support all three.

My involvement with this project as a climber is that I am able to climb at high-altitudes in challenging terrain 🏔️ and collect the eDNA samples contributing to this meaningful initiative. It also is a pleasure to work with two leading ladies of this project — Meagan Fallone from Mountain Path Switzerland and Anne-Cecile Turner from BloomUp 🙌👩‍🔬. Thankful to all my partners and sponsors 🙏

More updates from the Cordillera Blanca soon 📸✨

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CordilleraBlanca #eDNA #GlacierPreservation #Peru #WomenWhoClimb #GlaBBProject #UNESCO2025 #MountainPath #EPFL #NatureMetrics #GlacierProtection #Followership #Alpinism

Pakistan Expeditions Begin — A Note from Afar! 🏔️📍
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

As the summer climbing season begins in Pakistan, expeditions are now underway across the great 8000ers: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, and Nanga Parbat. 🧗‍♂️⛺

Though far in distance, I am thinking about the journeys I’ve had in Pakistan — the vast glaciers, remote valleys, towering peaks, and the warm hospitality of the people. It’s a land that always leaves a mark. ❄️🏞️🤝

Climbing in the Karakoram is never easy. The challenges are real, and safety remains the top priority. ⚠️ In this regard, I’m glad to see RECCO technology gaining ground in the region. As a long-time RECCO ambassador for Nepal and Pakistan, I'm sure it adds a valuable extra layer in search and rescue preparedness. 🎒📡

Wishing strength and safe passage to all the teams on the mountains right now — and especially to my long-time partner Dawa Sangay Sherpa who's preparing for his last Karakoram 8000er - Broad Peak. 💪🧭🌄

📸 Sophie Lavaud & François Damilano

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Karakoram #Pakistan8000ers #RECCO #ExpeditionSafety #WomenWhoClimb #Gasherbrum #K2 #BroadPeak #NangaParbat #ClimbingSeason

2nd Nanga Parbat Ascent Anniversary! 📅 26 June

2nd Nanga Parbat Ascent Anniversary!
📅 26 June
Version française 🇫🇷 en commentaire

Today marks two years since my ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126 m) 🏔️, the 14th and final 8000-meter peak of my himalayan grand slam. With Dawa Sangay Sherpa 🧑‍🚀, we stood on top of this giant after a long, demanding climb — one of the five hardest I’ve ever made 💪.

What I remember most is that deep breath on the summit 🌬️. Not because the journey ended, but because something significant had come full circle 🔁. The descent was tense — the weather was closing in 🌫️ — but the mountain allowed us to return safely 🙏.

Since then, many things have happened: the film Sophie Lavaud, le dernier sommet, directed by François Damilano 🎬, the book Les quatorze 8000 de Sophie Lavaud, editor Glénat 📖, and the Honoring the Pioneers project in the Annapurna, Himalaya ⛰️. It’s hard to believe all this has happened in just two years. Time flies ⏳.

But I believe this anniversary matters. It’s not just about a summit, but the journey, the people, the mountains, and everything they continue to teach 🛤️🗻.

Grateful to all who have been part of this path 🤍

📸 @francois_damilano & Sophie Lavaud

#SophieLavaud #EnRouteVersLesSommets #NangaParbat #14x8000 #AscensionAnniversaire #FemmesAlpinistes #Alpinisme #Himalaya #SouvenirsDExpédition #RéflexionsMontagne

👑 Roi de Siam 📍 Mont Blanc area between Aigu

👑 Roi de Siam
📍 Mont Blanc area between Aiguille du Midi and Torino Hut — Training Weekend! 🏔️🧗‍♀️

A strong training weekend with @fournieredouard and @lodo.frn in the Mont Blanc region. After the first short night at 3400m 🏕️ in our small tent, we started our walk to the bottom of Le Roi de Siam — route: Le Lifting du Roi, a 300-meter granite route (D+/II, 5c max) on the Petit Capucin 🪨.

We started from our tent at around 4:30 a.m. ⏰ and we managed to the top at noon 🕛. The whole descent was by rappel. Two nights in the tent provided an excellent acclimatization and time to move efficiently on mixed terrain — glacier approach ❄️, rock climbing 🧗‍♀️, and ropework throughout 🪢.

Thank you Edward for leading the climb, and to both father and son for this well-paced and motivating outing. A good step forward in preparation for what’s ahead… soon… 😉
Photos : @fournieredouard & @sophie_lavaud

Version française 🇫🇷
👑 Roi de Siam
📍 Région du Mont Blanc entre l’Aiguille du Midi et le refuge Torino — Week-end d’entraînement ! 🏔️🧗‍♀️

Un week-end d’entraînement intense avec Édouard et Lodoïc dans le massif du Mont Blanc. Après une première courte nuit à 3400 m 🏕️ dans notre petite tente, nous avons entamé notre marche vers le pied du Roi de Siam — itinéraire : Le Lifting du Roi, une voie de granit de 300 mètres (D+/II, 5c max) sur le Petit Capucin 🪨.

Départ de notre tente vers 4h30 du matin ⏰, et arrivée au sommet à midi 🕛. Toute la descente s’est faite en rappel. Deux nuits sous tente nous ont permis une excellente acclimatation et de progresser efficacement sur terrain mixte — approche glaciaire ❄️, splendide escalade rocheuse 🧗‍♀️ et manip de corde tout au long de la course 🪢.

Merci Édouard pour cette journée en tête, et bravo au duo père-fils pour cette sortie bien rythmée et motivante. Une belle étape de franchie dans la préparation de ce qui m’attend… très bientôt… 😉

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #MassifDuMontBlanc #EntraînementEscalade #RoiDeSiam #LeLiftingDuRoi #FemmesQuiGrimpent #Alpinisme #Alpes

Revisiting Lhotse — 8516 m Summit on May 14, 202

Revisiting Lhotse — 8516 m
Summit on May 14, 2022 ⛰️🇳🇵

I still remember this day clearly. With Dawa Sangay Sherpa, we reached the summit of Lhotse at 8:30 a.m. on May 14th, 2022 — after a long, tough night with stronger winds than expected as we approached the top.

From Camp 4 (around 7800 m), we pushed through the Lhotse wall - steep, exposed, and incredibly hard. In the night while pushing up the Lhotse face, a small line of headlamps is seen on the SE ridge of Everest. I only used supplemental oxygen above the final camp. The route was in pretty good condition and we were actually alone on the summit.

As I neared the summit, I saw a colored shape - it was a dead body. A sheer burst of sadness hit seeing a dead body here. Climbers often used to mark the body as the entrance to the summit. In 2024, Nepal Army brought the body down. 8000 m is literally the Death Zone - this is a place we negotiate very swiftly and safely.

Climbing Lhotse felt like revisiting a giant I had always admired from nearby. It was hard. Very high. But the moment we reached the top, it felt right.

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Lhotse #14x8000 #Lady8000 #WomenWhoClimb #TeamSuccess #Mountaineering #Himalaya #EverestRegion #climbingmemories

Opening the Decade of Cryosphere Preservation ❄️🌍
Cryosphere Pavilion, United Nations Ocean Summit #UNOC3 #Nice

It was an honor to participate in the Cryosphere Pavilion alongside key voices from science, exploration, and policy — and a special moment to have President Emmanuel Macron 🇫🇷 present in support of this global cause.

This marks the beginning of a critical decade for the preservation of our cryosphere. The message is clear: we must act. For those of us who spend time in the high mountains 🏔️ — from the Baltoro to the Khumbu — the urgency is visible. Glaciers are disappearing, and the people who live alongside them, Sherpa and Balti communities especially, are already impacted 🧭.

Grateful to Dr. Heïdi Sevestre and Matthieu Tordeur for the invitation 🙏. It was a pleasure sharing this stage with Kristin. I will continue to contribute in any way I can to support this effort.

Version française:
Ouverture de la Décennie pour la Préservation de la Cryosphère ❄🌍
Pavillon Cryosphère, Sommet des Nations Unies sur l’Océan #UNOC3 #Nice
Ce fut un honneur de participer au Pavillon Cryosphère aux côtés de voix majeures issues de la science, de l’exploration et des politiques publiques — et un moment fort avec la présence du Président Emmanuel Macron 🇫🇷, en soutien à cette cause mondiale.
C’est le début d’une décennie cruciale pour la préservation de notre cryosphère. Le message est clair : il faut agir. Pour celles et ceux d’entre nous qui évoluent en haute montagne 🏔 — du Baltoro au Khumbu — l’urgence est visible. Les glaciers disparaissent, et les populations qui vivent à leurs côtés, notamment les communautés Sherpa et Balti, sont déjà affectées 🧭.
Reconnaissante envers Dr. Heïdi Sevestre et Matthieu Tordeur pour l’invitation 🙏. Ce fut un plaisir de partager cette scène avec Kristin. Je continuerai à m’engager, par tous les moyens possibles, pour soutenir cette initiative.

📸 Sophie Lavaud
#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CryospherePavilion #UNOC3 #GlacierPreservation #MountainsMatter #Himalaya #Baltoro #Khumbu #AlpinismHeritage #UNESCO2025 🧗‍♀️📘

Baltoro — The Glacier Road to Karakoram Giants!

Baltoro — The Glacier Road to Karakoram Giants!
(with more to come at the Cryosphere Pavilion this week)

As the Karakoram climbing season begins, hundreds of porters and mules begin their long walk across one of the greatest glacier corridors on Earth — the Baltoro. At over 60 km, it's one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions, and the only access route to Pakistan’s highest peaks.

The trek starts from Askole, winding through rock, moraine, and ice. It’s the porters who make it possible — carrying tents, food, oxygen, and expedition equipment for days in tough terrain and unpredictable weather. Their work is essential, yet often overlooked.

Along the way: Masherbrum, the Trango Towers, and Uli Biaho. At the heart of the glacier lies Concordia — the confluence of Baltoro and Godwin-Austen Glaciers. This place opens to four 8000ers: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II.

I’ll be sharing more about Baltoro experience at the Cryosphere Pavilion. A glacier like no other — both a route and a reminder. I have been there for like 6 times already and each time feels fascinating. This land is so captivating!

📷 @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Baltoro #CryospherePavilion #Karakoram #Concordia #MountainsMatter #Porters #WomenWhoClimb #Pakistan

The Cryosphere Pavilion and Alpinism Heritage! 🏔️
(version française en commentaire 🇫🇷)

This week, I’m taking part in the Cryosphere Pavilion (June 2–13, 2025), dedicated to the future of glaciers and snow-covered environments ❄️ — especially important this year, designated by UNESCO as the International Year of Glacier Preservation 🧊. The Cryosphere Pavilion, supported by the Albedo Cryosphere Foundation, will host conferences, exchanges, and international events 🌍.

In this video with UNESCO 🎥, I spoke about alpinism as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. For me, this recognition matters — it means we can preserve what’s been passed down, and share it with future generations 📜👣.

I’ll also be sharing stage with Kristin Harila on the 10th of June, to share our experiences and offer testimonial on how the Himalaya have changed over the years 🏞️. More to come on this...

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CryospherePavilion #UNESCO2025 #GlacierPreservation #AlpinismHeritage #MountainsMatter #Himalaya #WomenWhoClimb #UNESCO #UNOC3 🧗‍♀️

Back ➡️ Manaslu 2022 — A Climb Against the O

Back ➡️ Manaslu 2022 — A Climb Against the Odds! 🏔️💪
(🇫🇷 version française en commentaire)

On October 1st, 2022, I reached the true summit of Manaslu (8163 m) with Lakpa Temba Sherpa after a very difficult season.

We had reached Camp 4 (7430 m) the day before in high winds (60 km/h 💨)and very uncertain conditions. Most teams had turned back, but my forecaster in Chamonix, Yan Giezendanner, told me: “Stay put... the wind will drop tonight.” 🌌
So we waited. ⏳

At 1:30 a.m., under a calm, clear sky 🌠, we left for the summit. Alex and Nima (a young kitchen staff member who stepped in after Dawa Sangay got ill at Camp 3 🤒) joined. At around 7600 m, they turned back due to cold and fatigue 🥶. With Lakpa, I continued.

At 6:50 a.m., we stood on the REAL summit ✨... nearly alone, despite 400+ permits that season. It was a chaotic season: heavy snow 🌨️, instability ⚠️, accidents 🚁, but a small window, a trusted forecast, and teamwork made it possible 🤝.

In the mountains, there are no fixed rules. It’s rarely black or white ⚫⚪. Sometimes, you assess the risk, trust your instinct and those around you — and make the call. When most turned back, we stayed. And that made all the difference. 🙏🔥

📸 Image Credits: @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Manaslu #8000ers #Mountaineering #RealSummit #Himalaya #WomenWhoClimb #SummitReflections #Followership #amrae #GrantAlexander

Thoughts on a Changing Rhythm in Himalayan Climbin

Thoughts on a Changing Rhythm in Himalayan Climbing 🏔️
(French version in comment 🇫🇷)

There’s been a lot of talk lately about rapid ascents and performance enhancements in high-altitude climbing. The recent xenon-assisted climbs are certainly part of a changing landscape in alpinism. I understand the appeal; faster ascents, reduced exposure, greater efficiency ⚡️🧗‍♂️. It may very well be a new chapter 📖.

But in this shift, I can’t help but think about what we miss out 😔.

When you climb over weeks, you don’t just move through altitude... you pass through places, stories, people 🌄🛤️.
You see the sunrise over the ridgeline after a cold night in the tent 🌅⛺.
You stop for tea and share a laugh with the kitchen crew 🍵😊.
You walk through rhododendron forests and wave back at curious children on the trail 🌸.
You get to know your crew members not just as climbers and helpers, but as individuals.
You sing, dance, rest, watch the weather shift...and feel the whole rhythm of a mountain journey unfold 🎶❄️☀️🌧️.

I often emphasize in my talks the virtues of "taking our time" ⏳.

I’m not criticizing new methods, every climber chooses their path.
But for me, these so-called “extra days to cut down” are the very heart of the experience ❤️.
They’re what stay with me long after the summit photo fades 🖼️.

The summit is a moment. But the mountain, the full mountain, is a story 📸➡️📚.

📸 @lisaroosli @dawasangay_ and @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Himalaya #MountaineeringReflections #8000ers #WomenWhoClimb #HighAltitude #BeautyofNepal #ClimbingCulture #laliguras #amrae #GrantAlexander

When Not Climbing, I Share 🗣️📚 (Version fr

When Not Climbing, I Share 🗣️📚 (Version française en commentaire)

Mountaineering is a big part of what I do 🧗‍♀️🏔️ — but it’s not the only thing.

Last weekend, I had the opportunity to speak at Les Mystères de l’UNIL 2025 🎤, a major event organized by the University of Lausanne 🇨🇭 exploring the theme of “The Intelligences”. My contribution was on the idea of “Praise of Followership” or the art of knowing how to follow — something I believe is as important as leadership. In the mountains, nothing happens alone. The strength of a team often determines the outcome of an expedition 💪.

Speaking at conferences like this is one of the ways I share what I’ve learned from high-altitude experiences 🏔️📖. It was a full room — about 500 people 👥 — and a rewarding exchange ✨. The session ended with a discussion on high-altitude physiology with Prof. Grégoire Millet, followed by Q&A with journalists 🎙️ and a book signing ✍️📚.

Thanks to Les Mystères, the team at @unilch and @24heures.ch, and @bertrandcarlier_photographe for the amazing photos 📷 — and to everyone who joined 🙏❤️.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #MysteresUNIL #UNIL2025 #theIntelligences #Conferences #Followership #MILLET #MountaineeringAndBeyond #WomenWhoClimb #14x8000

📅 25 May — Everest 🏔️ & Cho Oyu 🗻 Sum

📅 25 May — Everest 🏔️ & Cho Oyu 🗻 Summit Memory, and a Tribute to Junko Tabei👑, the Pioneer!

On this day in my expedition logbook:
🗓️ 25 May 2012 — Cho Oyu (8188 m), my second 8000er
🗓️ 25 May 2014 — Everest (8848.86 m), the highest point on Earth🌍

Both were important chapters in my journey, each mountain teaching me lessons I still carry today — about timing⏱️, patience🧘‍♀️, exposure🌬️, and what it means to truly commit💯 to the path upward.

This year, 2025, also marks the 50th anniversary of Junko Tabei’s historic Everest ascent 🏅— the first woman to stand on the summit, in 1975. In 1969, she established the Women’s Mountaineering Club in Japan 🇯🇵 after being denied by male climbers at the time. The club's slogan was "Let's go on an overseas expedition by ourselves." - something that she eventually led by example💪🌍 .

She never wanted to be branded as the First Lady. She was happy to have climbed Everest and be the 36th person to do so. In her own words, 💬 "I did not intend to be the first woman on Everest."

As we reflect on these milestones, I hope all women and girls who seek out the mountains — whether for adventure, discovery, or inner strength — find in Junko’s story, and those that followed, a quiet motivation to keep going and to dare➡️!

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dendi___sherpa & @francois_damilano

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Everest2014 #ChoOyu2012 #JunkoTabei50Years #8000ers #Mountaineering #WomenWhoClimb #Himalaya

Makalu, 23 May — A Day of Ascent and Remembrance

Makalu, 23 May — A Day of Ascent and Remembrance ✨
(French version in comment 🇲🇫)

On this day in 2016, we reached the summit of Makalu (8485 m) 🏔️, the fifth highest mountain in the world. Makalu is truly a giant climb in every sense — steep, exposed, and technically demanding. It was a long summit day: we left Camp 4 at 10 p.m. on 22 May and reached the summit at around 1 p.m. on 23 May. Clear skies ☀️, cold air ❄️, and no wind. The exhaustion led to an indescribable satisfaction at last. I returned to Camp 4 by 5 p.m. with Dorjee Sherpa.

It was my second attempt. A year earlier in 2015, we were caught in the middle of a climb when the devastating earthquake struck in Nepal. We were climbing to Camp 1 when suddenly a series of ice blocks started rumbling down — everywhere, all at once. Luckily no one in the team was hurt. We immediately descended back to the Advanced Base Camp on the same day and agreed in unison to abort the climb. The scale of destruction was hard to comprehend — lives lost, communities shattered 🕊️, and Kathmandu was no longer the same city I had left a few weeks earlier. Today, I pause to think of all those who were affected 🖤. My thoughts remain with the families who lost loved ones .

Makalu reminds me of the tragedy Nepal faced 10 years back and a lifelong climbing lesson — the importance of returning 🧗‍♀️.

📸 @sophie_lavaud and Nima Chhiring Lama

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Makalu #8000ers #Mountaineering #NepalEarthquake2015 #WomenWhoClimb #Himalaya #amrae #grantalexander

🌌 Why do we climb at night? One common questio

🌌 Why do we climb at night?

One common question I often hear: why do climbers make their summit push at night? 🤔

The answer is mostly about safety🛡. In the high mountains 🏔️, daytime temperatures can rise quickly, making snow and ice unstable ⚠️. This increases the risk of avalanches and serac collapses.
Sunlight also reflects strongly off the snow — the albedo effect🔆 — which can damage eyes and skin. As temperatures rise during the day, the body also tires faster, and weather patterns tend to become more unpredictable.

At night 🌙, conditions are more stable . The cold keeps the snow and ice firmer underfoot. The risk of collapse is lower. Visibility may be limited, but the benefits outweigh the challenges ✅.

There’s also something to be said about the timing. On a summit push, reaching the top with the first light of the day 🌄 often means witnessing the mountains at their fullest majesty ✨.

For these reasons, night ascents are standard practice in Himalayan climbing 🏔️
📸 @dawasangay_ & @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #WhyWeClimb #8000ers #SummitPush #MILLET #MountaineeringInsights #amrae #grantalexander

May 15 - A Special Day to Celebrate! 🎉🎂 (Fre

May 15 - A Special Day to Celebrate! 🎉🎂 (French version in comment 🇫🇷)

A year ago today, I gracefully received the distinction of Chevalier de l'ordre national du Mérite (Knight of the National Order of Merit) 🎖️ from the French Republic in recognition of my contribution to Alpinism 🏔️.

Sharing this memory today, which also happens to be my birthday 🥳, with a thought — when you commit to something over time, it can create a meaningful ripple in society 🌍✨.

In mountaineering, there are no shortcuts. It is a pursuit grounded in hard work 💪, endurance 🧗‍♂️, consistency 🔁, and selflessness 💙.
Risk is constant ⚠️, the consequences are often fatal, and the process is slow. But when you keep going, recognition eventually arrives — not just in medals, but in how your work is valued and understood 🙌.

Just as the first ascent of Annapurna in 1950 inspired a generation and sparked the golden age of Himalayan climbing, we continue to draw meaning from the mountains — and from those who walk before us 👣.

Thank you 🙏 to all my sponsors, partners, teammates, friends, and family ❤️. Your support has made it possible to keep moving forward ➡️.

Looking ahead to the journeys to come ✨.

📸 @bertrandcarlier_photographe

#Gratitude #Alpinisme #Montagne #OrdreNationalDuMérite #LetsGoSummit #148000ers #Mountaineering #Annapurna2025 #celebration #recognition #transmission

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