Sophie Lavaud summits Annapurna IV to honor pioneers of Himalayan mountaineering
KATHMANDU: Veteran alpinist Sophie Lavaud has successfully summited Annapurna IV (7,525 m) as part of her “Honoring the Pioneers” project, a tribute marking the 75th anniversary of the first French Annapurna Expedition of 1950. The ascent was completed during the night of October 19–20, with the climb managed by Seven Summit Treks Pvt. Ltd.
With this achievement, Lavaud - who holds French, Swiss, and Canadian citizenship - became the first woman from all three countries to reach the summit of Annapurna IV, and only the seventh female climber ever to do so.
Describing the climb as “much more difficult than expected,” Lavaud said the summit push involved over 1,000 meters of ascent, adding that “some 8,000-metre summits are easier than this one.” Despite excellent overall conditions, the final ridge, exposed to intense cold and wind and lacking fixed ropes, required extraordinary commitment.
The team - comprising Dawa Sangay Sherpa, Oleg, Simon, Gyalu, and Pema - made their first summit attempt earlier in the week but faced limited fixed-rope coverage. Lavaud chose to halt her climb while Gyalu, Pema, and Oleg continued to reach the top. After regrouping, she made a second push in improved wind conditions, leaving Camp III at 11 p.m. and reaching the summit around 9 a.m. on October 20. She descended safely to Camp III by early afternoon and returned to Base Camp the following morning.
“This project is not just about reaching a summit. It is about paying homage to those who opened the way - who ventured into the unknown with the tools, knowledge, and courage of their time,” Lavaud said.
She added, “The summit is an instant, but the journey is the story you carry inside you,” reflecting on the demanding final ridge that tested her endurance and spirit.
Lavaud expressed gratitude to her climbing partner Dawa Sangay Sherpa, the fixed-rope crews, the logistics and base camp teams, and her sponsors and supporters for their role in the expedition’s success.
A former executive in Geneva’s luxury and events sector, Sophie Lavaud transitioned to Himalayan mountaineering in 2012 and became one of the few climbers in history -male or female - to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in 2023. Her work promotes sustainable alpinism, Sherpa recognition, and women’s empowerment in high-altitude climbing.
Lavaud’s Annapurna IV success, she said, opens the way for the next chapter in her ongoing mountaineering journey.
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