Mera Peak and Island Peak

Two summits for the price of one - that was the beautiful gift Nepal offered us during this adventure between Mera Peak (6,476 m) and Island Peak (6,165 m).

Our initial plan was to continue after the summit of Mera Peak by crossing the Amphu Lapcha Pass. However, at this time of year, in late March, conditions were still very wintery. The pass had not yet been opened, the north face was heavily loaded with snow, and attempting to cross at 5,600 metres would have involved far too much risk.

So we chose a Plan B: descending back to Lukla and then climbing up again towards Chhukung in order to replace the pass crossing with a second 6,000-metre summit - Island Peak (Imja Tse).

Sangay and I had already been there in 2022, and I was deeply struck by how much the terrain has changed. The face leading to the summit ridge, which was still covered in ice just a few years ago, is now completely dry. The ice has disappeared, leaving behind a rock wall that makes the ascent far more technical.

This observation fits perfectly within the framework of the Baseline Glacier Biodiversity Challenge, illustrating very concretely the rapid evolution and melting of glaciers. We were also able to collect ice samples during the descent from the summit before returning to base camp.

We then continued our journey from Chhukung down to Namche Bazaar and Lukla in magnificent conditions.

It is always a tremendous joy to return to this region, and I was truly happy to share this adventure with friends. The atmosphere throughout the trip was fantastic, and everyone leaves with wonderful memories.

Our four-legged mascot, affectionately nicknamed “Momo,” even accompanied us all the way to Mera High Camp at 5,900 metres!

Before returning to Geneva, we also organised a RECCO refresher training session for the guides of Seven Summit Treks and gave a presentation of the Baseline project at ICIMOD (International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development).

Now the focus shifts westward with preparations for the upcoming Mount Logan expedition in Canada in the coming weeks.

A huge thank you to everyone for the great energy shared during this adventure, and to my sponsors and partners for their loyal support.

More to come very soon.

Sending you all my warmest thoughts,

Sophie