Sophie
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Sophie
Expéditions
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Blog
Vidéos
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EN

Sophie
Expéditions
Conférences
Blog
Vidéos
Presse
EN

itinéraire Tocllaraju depuis Huaraz

6 août 2025

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itinéraire Tocllaraju depuis Huaraz

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sophie_lavaud

Mountainer / Speaker / Author
Completed 14 x 8000m ⛰️ | 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇫🇷 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇨🇦 and 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇨🇭 woman
🧗 Climbing and Exploring Cordillera Blanca now!

Attempt on the Dufourspitze 4,634 m – Monte Rosa

Attempt on the Dufourspitze 4,634 m – Monte Rosa Massif 🇨🇭🇮🇹
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

This summer, together with Dawa Sangay, we set our sights on the Dufourspitze (4,634 m), the roof of Switzerland 🏔️! We chose the Italian side, a wilder and less-traveled route compared to the classic Swiss ascent. From the Capanna Gnifetti, we started in the middle of the night 🌙, facing more than 1,000 meters of elevation gain above 4,000 m!

But just about a hundred meters below the summit, the ridge became too tricky: snow too soft, the crest too sharp, protection unreliable… Time was slipping away, the sun heating up ☀️… so we turned back!

Instead, we climbed to the Zumsteinspitze (4,562 m), a beautiful peak of the Monte Rosa, with a stunning sunrise above a sea of clouds 🌄. The Dufourspitze will have to wait for another time.

The adventure goes on, and the motivation remains as strong as ever 😉💪
Thanks to Dawa Sangay for sharing this nice climb!

Have you been here? How was your experience? Let me know ☺

📸 Sophie Lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Dufourspitze #Zumsteinspitze #MonteRosa #Alpinisme #WomenWhoClimb #MountainsMatter #Followership

Back to Annapurna IV — Autumn 2025 🏔️🇳🇵
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

Sometimes, persistence is part of the journey. 💪 This past spring, our attempt on Annapurna IV did not reach the summit but as I often say, the mountains will still be there, waiting. ⛰️✨

As part of the Honoring the Pioneers project, which marks the 75th anniversary 🎉 of the first ascent of Annapurna I by the 1950 French expedition 🇫🇷, I will return this autumn to give Annapurna IV another try. At 7,525 m, Annapurna IV may be less known than its famous neighbors, but it offers a technical and beautiful climb in the heart of the Annapurna massif ❤️🏔️.

This project is not just about reaching a summit. 🎯 It is about paying tribute to those who opened the way, who ventured into the unknown 🌍 with the tools 🛠️, knowledge 📚, and courage of their time.

And as always, the rope is open 🪢 for a few climbers who share the same enthusiasm. I warmly welcome who may wish to join this expedition.

Onward, to the next chapter 📖 in the Annapurna story. 🏔️

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #AnnapurnaIV #HonoringThePioneers #WomenWhoClimb #NepalExpeditions #Followership #MountainsMatter #Annapurna

The “True Summit” of Manaslu – 8163 m 🏔️🇳🇵 !
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

I first summited Manaslu in 2017, in good condition 💪 and with a positive feeling about the climb. The summit push had gone well, and I returned home content 😊.

Some time later, in 2019 or early 2020, while stuck in a traffic jam 🚗 in Kathmandu, I was speaking with my friend @thanes_977 . Out of the blue, he said: “By the way, Didi, you didn’t reach the true summit.” I replied, “Of course I did.” He insisted otherwise, and that conversation stayed with me 🤔.

Then, in 2022, Eberhard Jurgalski and his team published their research 📊 with updated data on the "true/false" summits, making a huge shockwave.

I decided to return to stand on what is now recognized as the “true summit” of Manaslu. It was interesting to be back on this beautiful mountain 🏔️ with a clear objective 🎯. I was actually curious to understand what I did wrong last time. The realization was somewhat disappointing 😅! It took me 20 more minutes to reach the true summit. Later I wrote 📖 in my book a chapter about the Manaslu incident entitled, "All this for that."

My point of view remains that the achievements of the pioneers should stand as they are. What they accomplished in their time, with the knowledge, equipment, and information available, is so remarkable. At the same time, I understand Eberhard’s position, which is rooted in precise and factual measurement.

I’ve also discussed this with @billi_bierling of the Himalayan Database. There are climbers who have since gone back to reach the “true summit,” and others who are no longer with us 🕊️. For me, there is no black-and-white answer. History in mountaineering is as much about the spirit ✨ and context of the climb as it is about the exact line or GPS point 📍.

What are your thoughts on the true summit incident in Himalayan mountaineering?

📷 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Manaslu #8000ers #MountaineeringReflections #WomenWhoClimb #ClimbingHistory #Himalaya #Followership

A Moment of Stillness under the Stars in the Aigui

A Moment of Stillness under the Stars in the Aiguilles Rouges ✨🏔️🌌
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

Back in the Alps. With my friend Alex, we climbed the Aiguille de la Persévérance (2,900 m) 🧗‍♀️ in the Aiguilles Rouges range, in the Chamonix valley 🏞️ — a beautiful nine-pitch rock route accessible from the Col des Montets. A great way to reconnect with the rhythm and feel of alpine rock climbing after several weeks of expeditions.
We carried big packs 🎒 with the idea of bivouacking after the climb and that’s exactly what we did. Once off the main trails and away from the summer crowds, we found ourselves alone, surrounded only by silence, the beauty of the place… and a few ibex 🐐.

It was a big day, with around 1,600 meters of elevation gain ⛰️ from the Col des Montets to the summit. We dropped our sleeping bags by the Lac de la Persévérance 🏕️, a stunning mirror of water named after the very needle we had just climbed — facing the Aiguille Verte.

What a joy to bivouac under a starlit sky 🌠. A moment of stillness, time for reflection, to step back, and to contemplate around and above us.
As I always say, summit is often a moment but the entire journey is the story which stays with you 📖 ! The Perseverence is a good example. 😊

Do you have similar experience under the night sky? 😊

📸 Sophie Lavaud & Alex

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #AiguillesRouges #NeedleOfPerseverance #MontBlanc #WomenWhoClimb #Alpinism #MountainReflection #Bivouac #StarryNight #Chamonix #MountainsMatter

An Alternative Way Down from Karakoram — Gondogo

An Alternative Way Down from Karakoram — Gondogoro La 🇵🇰
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

As the climbing season in Pakistan draws to a close, it’s a moment to remember that in high-altitude expeditions, either you make it to the summit or not, after returning the base camp, there's this long way back home. 🏔️🎒

One of the lesser-known but most memorable descent routes after major expeditions like K2 or the Gasherbrums is the Gondogoro La Pass (5585 m) — a stunning alternative to the long return via the Baltoro Glacier. Instead of heading west from Concordia, you turn slightly south onto the Vigne Glacier. ❄️🧭

I’ve taken this route several times, and each time, it left me in awe. The approach to Ali Camp takes you across this vast glacier — flat at first glance, but dangerously deceptive in reality. In 2019, after our Gasherbrum I summit, Dawa Sangay and I were exhausted... and tried to cut across without a rope. Not our best decision. ⚠️🧊😓 Caught in a maze of crevasses, things got really tense — but somehow, nerves frayed, we found our way and reached the camp safely.

The descent is equally spectacular: it brings you through the base of Laila Peak, that elegant, needle-like summit with its unforgettable silhouette 🏔️✨, then begin a long and beautiful walk down along Gondogoro Glacier to reach the village of Hushe. The reward? A more direct route to Skardu, often saving a day or more compared to the classic Baltoro exit. 🚶‍♀️🌄🚙

Recently, a sad news followed. Laura Dahlmeier, a German climber, lost her life on Laila Peak after being struck by a rock. ⚰️🕊️ Farewell, Laura. May you rest in eternal peace. 💔🙏

It’s a tough but rewarding option, a passage that adds yet another layer of challenge and beauty to an already intense expedition. 🏔️🔥🌍

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #GondogoroLa #Karakoram #PakistanExpeditions #8000ers #WomenWhoClimb #LailaPeak #Gasherbrum #K2 #Followership #MountainMemories

Peru Expedition Completed — Huascarán 🇵🇪

Peru Expedition Completed — Huascarán 🇵🇪
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

The Peru phase of the eDNA Glacier Project is now complete — with one final and important objective on Huascarán (6768 m) 🏔️, the highest peak in Peru.

We attempted two different routes. Our first was on the normal route, but just a day before our arrival, a critical snow bridge collapsed 🌉❌, making it impossible to cross safely. Still, at around 5600 m 📍, we managed to collect a valuable snow sample ❄️🧪 — the highest point of sample collection on Huascarán during this mission.

After some 24 hours of rest at Camp 1 🏕️, under stunning views 🌄, we launched a second attempt the following night via the “Scientist Route” 🧭 — a longer and more technical line 🧗‍♀️ named after a former research camp 🧪🏔️ located at the col between Huascarán North and South.

This was a challenging and serious climb ⚠️. The route involved significant risk, especially knowing that any successful summit would require a technical descent ⛏️ in the warming instability of the day ☀️🧊. After several hours of climbing, I made the decision to retreat 🔁. My teammates continued for a few more hours, but eventually the whole team turned back due to slow progress and safety concerns 🛑.

We then descended back with Cesar to Camp 1 ⛺ and supported the porters in bringing all materials down to the refuge 🧺📦, and there we processed our final sample 🧬.

Despite not reaching the summit, the mission was a success ✅; all targeted eDNA samples were safely collected 🧪🌍 and will now be shipped to Nature Metrics 📦🔬 for analysis.

A special thanks 🙏 to Cesar Rosales and the team here in Peru 🇵🇪 for their partnership and all the laughs and joyous moments 😄. I am grateful to all associated organizations including Nature Metrics, BloomUp, Mountain Path Switzerland and my sponsors and partners who made this journey possible 🤝🌐.

Onward to the next phase. 🚀

📸 Sophie Lavaud, @virialvarezmx & @juanp_toro

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Huascarán #CordilleraBlanca #eDNAProject #GlacierPreservation #Peru #WomenWhoClimb #GlaBBProject #MountainPath #NatureMetrics #ScientificExpedition #Followership

K2 Anniversary – 8611 m — July 21, 2018 🏔️
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

A few days late, but with Peru’s expedition keeping me off-grid, I finally take a moment to remember K2: an incredibly tough climb.
This was my second attempt. I had first gone in 2016, during which we filmed “K2, Une journée particulière” directed by @francois_damilano 🎥. Though that expedition didn’t reach the summit, the experience was meaningful, and the story found its way into a successful film.

In 2018, I returned. Despite stable conditions that year, K2 remained one of the most difficult climbs I’ve ever undertaken 💪. But that also was the year I met @dawasangay_ 🤝 and eventually we started working together, a partnership that continues to this day.

I have a vivid memory of the descent. After the summit, I went straight down to base camp ⛺. At the crampon point, I reunited with @14dawa, @ali.sadpara, @noelhannaadventure and @pembathenduk_sherpa — a moment of warmth after a long and demanding climb 🤍. Sadly, two from that photo are no longer with us.
Farewell Ali Sadpara and Noel Hanna 🕊️.

K2, with all its intensity, continues to teach and inspire 📚. I often share its story during my conferences — the arduous climb, the strength that you have to prepare from within, and what I found on K2 and what I lost.

@sevensummittreks
#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #K2 #8000ers #AnniversaryClimb #WomenWhoClimb #PakistanExpeditions #Mountaineering #AliSadpara #NoelHanna #Karakoram #Followership

The Summit Is Only Halfway! ⛰️🧭 Version fra

The Summit Is Only Halfway! ⛰️🧭
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

In mountaineering, reaching the summit is never the end; it’s only the halfway.
The descent, though it may seem easier, is often where the greatest risks lie ⚠️.

That’s why I always try to go down as far as possible after the summit, keeping the focus and rhythm. On Broad Peak, I descended directly from the summit to base camp in one push. I did the same on K2, Gasherbrum I and many other 8000ers 🏔️🎒

Often in descent, staying in a high camp, blowing up a mattress, melting snow, especially when there's little or no food 🍲❄️, can demand more energy than simply continuing downward keeping yourself concentrated 🧠🎯.
But not all descents end safely. As I write this, I think of Klara 🕊️.
She lost her life while descending from Nanga Parbat. She was among the most disciplined and level headed mountaineers 🧗‍♀️. But it just takes a minor slip in mountaineering to result in a fatal consequence 🩶.

Farewell Klara. You are deeply missed every time I return to these high grounds 🏞️.

📸 Sophie Lavaud and François Damilano

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #8000ers #ClimbingLessons #WomenWhoClimb #BroadPeak #K2 #GasherbrumI #NangaParbat #SummitIsHalfway #Followership

Tocllaraju (6034 m) — Second Phase Completed! 🏔️
Cordillera Blanca, Peru 🇵🇪
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

We’re now safely back in Huaraz 🏘️ after completing our first major climb of the expedition — Tocllaraju (6034 m). A beautiful, technical mountain that gave us a full alpine experience 🧗‍♀️❄️.

With Cesar Rosales, we climbed in pure alpine style, with two technical ice axes 🪓🪓. It was cold 🥶, windy 🌬️, and we were completely alone on the route. We left high camp at 1:30 a.m. for 1000 meters elevation and were back at 10:00 a.m. — a fast and committed push on a stunning line ⛰️.

This climb was also a key step for the eDNA Glacier Project 🧬. Cesar and I successfully collected a sample at high camp (5100 m) 🧪, at the base of the glacier and at the summit of Tocllaraju. The samples made it back safely ✅ and we were able to process it further back at the refuge 🧊🏠. Big thank you to Cesar for his commitment and strong help 🙏👏.

I now have two eDNA kits remaining 🧳, which I will carry for the next big objective — Huascarán — as we move forward on the 18th 🗓️.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Tocllaraju #CordilleraBlanca #EDNAProject #GlacierPreservation #WomenWhoClimb #Mountaineering #Peru #AlpineStyle #GlaBBProject #MountainPath #NatureMetrics

Gasherbrum I (8080m) — 6 Years Ago Today!
🗓️ July 12, 2019 – July 12, 2025
🇫🇷 French version in the comment

G1 taught me something essential: that taking time is part of the climb. 🧭

When the weather isn’t ideal ☁️, when your body feels tired 😮‍💨, sometimes the best decision you can make is to pause. On G1, we spent more than 24 hours at Camp 3 🏕️, letting the body reset and regain strength. I remember doing something similar a few years earlier at Camp 2 on Broad Peak.

That kind of rest isn’t a delay — it’s part of success. ⛺
You wait, rest, and recover — and when the time is right, you move again. Clear-headed, steady, and strong 💪

Gasherbrum I remains a quiet but powerful memory.
A piece of wisdom that in mountaineering, as in life, momentum sometimes comes from knowing when to hold still. 🏔️

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #GasherbrumI #8000ers #AnniversaryClimb #WomenWhoClimb #Karakoram #PakistanExpeditions #Followership

Broad Peak - 8 Years Ago Today! 📅 July 11, 2017

Broad Peak - 8 Years Ago Today!
📅 July 11, 2017 – July 11, 2025
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

Today marks the 8th anniversary of my Broad Peak ascent (8051 m) 🏔️ — a climb I’ll always remember for the solitude and inner strength it demanded.
I remember the night of the summit push.
I left Camp 3 alone. Fida Ali, who was supposed to join me and bring the safety oxygen bottle, said he was coming, but I started moving ahead into the night. The summit push was long and cold ❄️ and I was alone on the route, no headlamps in sight, only the wind 🌬️ and the sound of my own breath. Mentally, it was a deep push — to hold it all together keeping the rhythm. A lesson of how much mountaineering is about managing yourself when you're all for yourself.

I waited and met Fida Ali at the col. We set off together but alone on the summit ridge. And all without oxygen. It was such a long and tiring night. But we made it! 💪

This climb remains special to me. And today, I’m sending all my energy to Dawa Sangay Sherpa who is now on Broad Peak 🙏

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #BroadPeak #8000ers #AnniversaryClimb #Mountaineering #WomenWhoClimb #Himalaya #PakistanExpeditions

Cordillera Blanca: Through the First Phase 🇵🇪
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

Just back in Huaraz 🏔️ after completing our first acclimatization rotation for the Cordillera Blanca phase of the eDNA Glacier Project 🧬. Together with my guide’s friend Edwin Puntillo 🧗 we summited Pisco (5752 m) 🏔️ — a fast climb to acclimatise and prepare for what’s next.
Despite arriving one day later, I was able to complete the rotation on schedule. From Lima 🏙️, sea level 🌊 to Pisco summit in 4 days! My head was dancing a little 😵‍💫 but thanks to coca leaves 🍃, we managed this beautiful first ascent ✨.
We're now hosting a meeting with the « boss » @Cesar Rosales Expedition 🗺️ to plan our next ascent and continue arranging the eDNA sampling kits, which are yet to arrive 📦.
The physical preparation is done ✅. Now, the real work begins 🔬.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CordilleraBlanca #eDNA #GlacierPreservation #MountainScience #Peru #WomenWhoClimb #Followership

For Klára Still hard to believe. Klára wasn’t

For Klára
Still hard to believe.

Klára wasn’t just another climber I met on an expedition. We shared something deeper. Over the years, we crossed paths on Himalayan mountains: Dhaulagiri , K2, Kanchenjunga, and spent many moments together in Kathmandu. We even spent 23 long hours together in Camp 3 on Gasherbrum I. We talked, shared ideas, thoughts, and laughter. Her presence was always something I looked forward to.

I had been following her progress on Nanga Parbat closely via inReach. And now, hearing this news is incredibly painful. Klára fell to her death on July 3 while descending from Camp III. She left too early. But she left while doing what she loved most.

She was a beautiful person, full of energy and joy, and being in a team with her meant moments of lightness, even in the most demanding times.

Klára, I will dearly miss you. My thoughts and heartfelt prayers go to your family and all those who loved you. You were a vital part of our mountaineering world.

- Sophie

#RememberingKlára #InMemory

Heading to Peru — A New Chapter Begins 🇵🇪✈️
version française 🇫🇷 en commentaire

Today, I leave for Peru — a destination I’ve long wanted to discover. While our original plan was different, and Dawa Sangay sadly couldn’t get a visa this time, we adjusted. Peru it is.

The journey will take us into the heart of the Cordillera Blanca 🏔️, one of the most iconic glaciated regions in South America 🌎. This isn’t just a climbing trip 🧗‍♀️ — it’s also the official launch of the eDNA Glacier Project 🧬❄️.

This global initiative — led by Nature Metrics in collaboration with Mountain Path and BloomUp — will collect environmental DNA (eDNA) around six iconic glaciers worldwide 🌐. Peru marks the start 📍. The project aims to establish a biodiversity baseline in these fragile, rapidly changing ecosystems 🌱🌡️. It’s about science 🧪, policy 📝, preservation 🌍 — and using mountaineering to support all three.

My involvement with this project as a climber is that I am able to climb at high-altitudes in challenging terrain 🏔️ and collect the eDNA samples contributing to this meaningful initiative. It also is a pleasure to work with two leading ladies of this project — Meagan Fallone from Mountain Path Switzerland and Anne-Cecile Turner from BloomUp 🙌👩‍🔬. Thankful to all my partners and sponsors 🙏

More updates from the Cordillera Blanca soon 📸✨

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CordilleraBlanca #eDNA #GlacierPreservation #Peru #WomenWhoClimb #GlaBBProject #UNESCO2025 #MountainPath #EPFL #NatureMetrics #GlacierProtection #Followership #Alpinism

Pakistan Expeditions Begin — A Note from Afar! 🏔️📍
Version française en commentaire 🇫🇷

As the summer climbing season begins in Pakistan, expeditions are now underway across the great 8000ers: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II, and Nanga Parbat. 🧗‍♂️⛺

Though far in distance, I am thinking about the journeys I’ve had in Pakistan — the vast glaciers, remote valleys, towering peaks, and the warm hospitality of the people. It’s a land that always leaves a mark. ❄️🏞️🤝

Climbing in the Karakoram is never easy. The challenges are real, and safety remains the top priority. ⚠️ In this regard, I’m glad to see RECCO technology gaining ground in the region. As a long-time RECCO ambassador for Nepal and Pakistan, I'm sure it adds a valuable extra layer in search and rescue preparedness. 🎒📡

Wishing strength and safe passage to all the teams on the mountains right now — and especially to my long-time partner Dawa Sangay Sherpa who's preparing for his last Karakoram 8000er - Broad Peak. 💪🧭🌄

📸 Sophie Lavaud & François Damilano

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Karakoram #Pakistan8000ers #RECCO #ExpeditionSafety #WomenWhoClimb #Gasherbrum #K2 #BroadPeak #NangaParbat #ClimbingSeason

2nd Nanga Parbat Ascent Anniversary! 📅 26 June

2nd Nanga Parbat Ascent Anniversary!
📅 26 June
Version française 🇫🇷 en commentaire

Today marks two years since my ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126 m) 🏔️, the 14th and final 8000-meter peak of my himalayan grand slam. With Dawa Sangay Sherpa 🧑‍🚀, we stood on top of this giant after a long, demanding climb — one of the five hardest I’ve ever made 💪.

What I remember most is that deep breath on the summit 🌬️. Not because the journey ended, but because something significant had come full circle 🔁. The descent was tense — the weather was closing in 🌫️ — but the mountain allowed us to return safely 🙏.

Since then, many things have happened: the film Sophie Lavaud, le dernier sommet, directed by François Damilano 🎬, the book Les quatorze 8000 de Sophie Lavaud, editor Glénat 📖, and the Honoring the Pioneers project in the Annapurna, Himalaya ⛰️. It’s hard to believe all this has happened in just two years. Time flies ⏳.

But I believe this anniversary matters. It’s not just about a summit, but the journey, the people, the mountains, and everything they continue to teach 🛤️🗻.

Grateful to all who have been part of this path 🤍

📸 @francois_damilano & Sophie Lavaud

#SophieLavaud #EnRouteVersLesSommets #NangaParbat #14x8000 #AscensionAnniversaire #FemmesAlpinistes #Alpinisme #Himalaya #SouvenirsDExpédition #RéflexionsMontagne

👑 Roi de Siam 📍 Mont Blanc area between Aigu

👑 Roi de Siam
📍 Mont Blanc area between Aiguille du Midi and Torino Hut — Training Weekend! 🏔️🧗‍♀️

A strong training weekend with @fournieredouard and @lodo.frn in the Mont Blanc region. After the first short night at 3400m 🏕️ in our small tent, we started our walk to the bottom of Le Roi de Siam — route: Le Lifting du Roi, a 300-meter granite route (D+/II, 5c max) on the Petit Capucin 🪨.

We started from our tent at around 4:30 a.m. ⏰ and we managed to the top at noon 🕛. The whole descent was by rappel. Two nights in the tent provided an excellent acclimatization and time to move efficiently on mixed terrain — glacier approach ❄️, rock climbing 🧗‍♀️, and ropework throughout 🪢.

Thank you Edward for leading the climb, and to both father and son for this well-paced and motivating outing. A good step forward in preparation for what’s ahead… soon… 😉
Photos : @fournieredouard & @sophie_lavaud

Version française 🇫🇷
👑 Roi de Siam
📍 Région du Mont Blanc entre l’Aiguille du Midi et le refuge Torino — Week-end d’entraînement ! 🏔️🧗‍♀️

Un week-end d’entraînement intense avec Édouard et Lodoïc dans le massif du Mont Blanc. Après une première courte nuit à 3400 m 🏕️ dans notre petite tente, nous avons entamé notre marche vers le pied du Roi de Siam — itinéraire : Le Lifting du Roi, une voie de granit de 300 mètres (D+/II, 5c max) sur le Petit Capucin 🪨.

Départ de notre tente vers 4h30 du matin ⏰, et arrivée au sommet à midi 🕛. Toute la descente s’est faite en rappel. Deux nuits sous tente nous ont permis une excellente acclimatation et de progresser efficacement sur terrain mixte — approche glaciaire ❄️, splendide escalade rocheuse 🧗‍♀️ et manip de corde tout au long de la course 🪢.

Merci Édouard pour cette journée en tête, et bravo au duo père-fils pour cette sortie bien rythmée et motivante. Une belle étape de franchie dans la préparation de ce qui m’attend… très bientôt… 😉

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #MassifDuMontBlanc #EntraînementEscalade #RoiDeSiam #LeLiftingDuRoi #FemmesQuiGrimpent #Alpinisme #Alpes

Revisiting Lhotse — 8516 m Summit on May 14, 202

Revisiting Lhotse — 8516 m
Summit on May 14, 2022 ⛰️🇳🇵

I still remember this day clearly. With Dawa Sangay Sherpa, we reached the summit of Lhotse at 8:30 a.m. on May 14th, 2022 — after a long, tough night with stronger winds than expected as we approached the top.

From Camp 4 (around 7800 m), we pushed through the Lhotse wall - steep, exposed, and incredibly hard. In the night while pushing up the Lhotse face, a small line of headlamps is seen on the SE ridge of Everest. I only used supplemental oxygen above the final camp. The route was in pretty good condition and we were actually alone on the summit.

As I neared the summit, I saw a colored shape - it was a dead body. A sheer burst of sadness hit seeing a dead body here. Climbers often used to mark the body as the entrance to the summit. In 2024, Nepal Army brought the body down. 8000 m is literally the Death Zone - this is a place we negotiate very swiftly and safely.

Climbing Lhotse felt like revisiting a giant I had always admired from nearby. It was hard. Very high. But the moment we reached the top, it felt right.

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Lhotse #14x8000 #Lady8000 #WomenWhoClimb #TeamSuccess #Mountaineering #Himalaya #EverestRegion #climbingmemories

Opening the Decade of Cryosphere Preservation ❄️🌍
Cryosphere Pavilion, United Nations Ocean Summit #UNOC3 #Nice

It was an honor to participate in the Cryosphere Pavilion alongside key voices from science, exploration, and policy — and a special moment to have President Emmanuel Macron 🇫🇷 present in support of this global cause.

This marks the beginning of a critical decade for the preservation of our cryosphere. The message is clear: we must act. For those of us who spend time in the high mountains 🏔️ — from the Baltoro to the Khumbu — the urgency is visible. Glaciers are disappearing, and the people who live alongside them, Sherpa and Balti communities especially, are already impacted 🧭.

Grateful to Dr. Heïdi Sevestre and Matthieu Tordeur for the invitation 🙏. It was a pleasure sharing this stage with Kristin. I will continue to contribute in any way I can to support this effort.

Version française:
Ouverture de la Décennie pour la Préservation de la Cryosphère ❄🌍
Pavillon Cryosphère, Sommet des Nations Unies sur l’Océan #UNOC3 #Nice
Ce fut un honneur de participer au Pavillon Cryosphère aux côtés de voix majeures issues de la science, de l’exploration et des politiques publiques — et un moment fort avec la présence du Président Emmanuel Macron 🇫🇷, en soutien à cette cause mondiale.
C’est le début d’une décennie cruciale pour la préservation de notre cryosphère. Le message est clair : il faut agir. Pour celles et ceux d’entre nous qui évoluent en haute montagne 🏔 — du Baltoro au Khumbu — l’urgence est visible. Les glaciers disparaissent, et les populations qui vivent à leurs côtés, notamment les communautés Sherpa et Balti, sont déjà affectées 🧭.
Reconnaissante envers Dr. Heïdi Sevestre et Matthieu Tordeur pour l’invitation 🙏. Ce fut un plaisir de partager cette scène avec Kristin. Je continuerai à m’engager, par tous les moyens possibles, pour soutenir cette initiative.

📸 Sophie Lavaud
#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CryospherePavilion #UNOC3 #GlacierPreservation #MountainsMatter #Himalaya #Baltoro #Khumbu #AlpinismHeritage #UNESCO2025 🧗‍♀️📘

Baltoro — The Glacier Road to Karakoram Giants!

Baltoro — The Glacier Road to Karakoram Giants!
(with more to come at the Cryosphere Pavilion this week)

As the Karakoram climbing season begins, hundreds of porters and mules begin their long walk across one of the greatest glacier corridors on Earth — the Baltoro. At over 60 km, it's one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions, and the only access route to Pakistan’s highest peaks.

The trek starts from Askole, winding through rock, moraine, and ice. It’s the porters who make it possible — carrying tents, food, oxygen, and expedition equipment for days in tough terrain and unpredictable weather. Their work is essential, yet often overlooked.

Along the way: Masherbrum, the Trango Towers, and Uli Biaho. At the heart of the glacier lies Concordia — the confluence of Baltoro and Godwin-Austen Glaciers. This place opens to four 8000ers: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II.

I’ll be sharing more about Baltoro experience at the Cryosphere Pavilion. A glacier like no other — both a route and a reminder. I have been there for like 6 times already and each time feels fascinating. This land is so captivating!

📷 @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Baltoro #CryospherePavilion #Karakoram #Concordia #MountainsMatter #Porters #WomenWhoClimb #Pakistan

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