Sophie
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Sophie
Expéditions
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EN

Sophie
Expéditions
Conférences
Blog
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Presse
EN

descente vers le camp de base avancé

4 juillet 2016

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descente vers le camp de base avancé

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sophie_lavaud

Mountainer / Speaker / Author
Completed 14 x 8000m | 𝟏𝐬𝐭 , 𝟏𝐬𝐭 , and 𝟏𝐬𝐭 woman
Climbing Annapurna II, III, IV in 2025!

Revisiting Lhotse — 8516 m Summit on May 14, 202

Revisiting Lhotse — 8516 m
Summit on May 14, 2022 ⛰️🇳🇵

I still remember this day clearly. With Dawa Sangay Sherpa, we reached the summit of Lhotse at 8:30 a.m. on May 14th, 2022 — after a long, tough night with stronger winds than expected as we approached the top.

From Camp 4 (around 7800 m), we pushed through the Lhotse wall - steep, exposed, and incredibly hard. In the night while pushing up the Lhotse face, a small line of headlamps is seen on the SE ridge of Everest. I only used supplemental oxygen above the final camp. The route was in pretty good condition and we were actually alone on the summit.

As I neared the summit, I saw a colored shape - it was a dead body. A sheer burst of sadness hit seeing a dead body here. Climbers often used to mark the body as the entrance to the summit. In 2024, Nepal Army brought the body down. 8000 m is literally the Death Zone - this is a place we negotiate very swiftly and safely.

Climbing Lhotse felt like revisiting a giant I had always admired from nearby. It was hard. Very high. But the moment we reached the top, it felt right.

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Lhotse #14x8000 #Lady8000 #WomenWhoClimb #TeamSuccess #Mountaineering #Himalaya #EverestRegion #climbingmemories

Opening the Decade of Cryosphere Preservation ❄️🌍
Cryosphere Pavilion, United Nations Ocean Summit #UNOC3 #Nice

It was an honor to participate in the Cryosphere Pavilion alongside key voices from science, exploration, and policy — and a special moment to have President Emmanuel Macron 🇫🇷 present in support of this global cause.

This marks the beginning of a critical decade for the preservation of our cryosphere. The message is clear: we must act. For those of us who spend time in the high mountains 🏔️ — from the Baltoro to the Khumbu — the urgency is visible. Glaciers are disappearing, and the people who live alongside them, Sherpa and Balti communities especially, are already impacted 🧭.

Grateful to Dr. Heïdi Sevestre and Matthieu Tordeur for the invitation 🙏. It was a pleasure sharing this stage with Kristin. I will continue to contribute in any way I can to support this effort.

Version française:
Ouverture de la Décennie pour la Préservation de la Cryosphère ❄🌍
Pavillon Cryosphère, Sommet des Nations Unies sur l’Océan #UNOC3 #Nice
Ce fut un honneur de participer au Pavillon Cryosphère aux côtés de voix majeures issues de la science, de l’exploration et des politiques publiques — et un moment fort avec la présence du Président Emmanuel Macron 🇫🇷, en soutien à cette cause mondiale.
C’est le début d’une décennie cruciale pour la préservation de notre cryosphère. Le message est clair : il faut agir. Pour celles et ceux d’entre nous qui évoluent en haute montagne 🏔 — du Baltoro au Khumbu — l’urgence est visible. Les glaciers disparaissent, et les populations qui vivent à leurs côtés, notamment les communautés Sherpa et Balti, sont déjà affectées 🧭.
Reconnaissante envers Dr. Heïdi Sevestre et Matthieu Tordeur pour l’invitation 🙏. Ce fut un plaisir de partager cette scène avec Kristin. Je continuerai à m’engager, par tous les moyens possibles, pour soutenir cette initiative.

📸 Sophie Lavaud
#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CryospherePavilion #UNOC3 #GlacierPreservation #MountainsMatter #Himalaya #Baltoro #Khumbu #AlpinismHeritage #UNESCO2025 🧗‍♀️📘

Baltoro — The Glacier Road to Karakoram Giants!

Baltoro — The Glacier Road to Karakoram Giants!
(with more to come at the Cryosphere Pavilion this week)

As the Karakoram climbing season begins, hundreds of porters and mules begin their long walk across one of the greatest glacier corridors on Earth — the Baltoro. At over 60 km, it's one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions, and the only access route to Pakistan’s highest peaks.

The trek starts from Askole, winding through rock, moraine, and ice. It’s the porters who make it possible — carrying tents, food, oxygen, and expedition equipment for days in tough terrain and unpredictable weather. Their work is essential, yet often overlooked.

Along the way: Masherbrum, the Trango Towers, and Uli Biaho. At the heart of the glacier lies Concordia — the confluence of Baltoro and Godwin-Austen Glaciers. This place opens to four 8000ers: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II.

I’ll be sharing more about Baltoro experience at the Cryosphere Pavilion. A glacier like no other — both a route and a reminder. I have been there for like 6 times already and each time feels fascinating. This land is so captivating!

📷 @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Baltoro #CryospherePavilion #Karakoram #Concordia #MountainsMatter #Porters #WomenWhoClimb #Pakistan

The Cryosphere Pavilion and Alpinism Heritage! 🏔️
(version française en commentaire 🇫🇷)

This week, I’m taking part in the Cryosphere Pavilion (June 2–13, 2025), dedicated to the future of glaciers and snow-covered environments ❄️ — especially important this year, designated by UNESCO as the International Year of Glacier Preservation 🧊. The Cryosphere Pavilion, supported by the Albedo Cryosphere Foundation, will host conferences, exchanges, and international events 🌍.

In this video with UNESCO 🎥, I spoke about alpinism as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. For me, this recognition matters — it means we can preserve what’s been passed down, and share it with future generations 📜👣.

I’ll also be sharing stage with Kristin Harila on the 10th of June, to share our experiences and offer testimonial on how the Himalaya have changed over the years 🏞️. More to come on this...

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #CryospherePavilion #UNESCO2025 #GlacierPreservation #AlpinismHeritage #MountainsMatter #Himalaya #WomenWhoClimb #UNESCO #UNOC3 🧗‍♀️

Manaslu 2022 — A Climb Against the O

Back ➡️ Manaslu 2022 — A Climb Against the Odds! 🏔️💪
(🇫🇷 version française en commentaire)

On October 1st, 2022, I reached the true summit of Manaslu (8163 m) with Lakpa Temba Sherpa after a very difficult season.

We had reached Camp 4 (7430 m) the day before in high winds (60 km/h 💨)and very uncertain conditions. Most teams had turned back, but my forecaster in Chamonix, Yan Giezendanner, told me: “Stay put... the wind will drop tonight.” 🌌
So we waited. ⏳

At 1:30 a.m., under a calm, clear sky 🌠, we left for the summit. Alex and Nima (a young kitchen staff member who stepped in after Dawa Sangay got ill at Camp 3 🤒) joined. At around 7600 m, they turned back due to cold and fatigue 🥶. With Lakpa, I continued.

At 6:50 a.m., we stood on the REAL summit ✨... nearly alone, despite 400+ permits that season. It was a chaotic season: heavy snow 🌨️, instability ⚠️, accidents 🚁, but a small window, a trusted forecast, and teamwork made it possible 🤝.

In the mountains, there are no fixed rules. It’s rarely black or white ⚫⚪. Sometimes, you assess the risk, trust your instinct and those around you — and make the call. When most turned back, we stayed. And that made all the difference. 🙏🔥

📸 Image Credits: @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Manaslu #8000ers #Mountaineering #RealSummit #Himalaya #WomenWhoClimb #SummitReflections #Followership #amrae #GrantAlexander

Thoughts on a Changing Rhythm in Himalayan Climbin

Thoughts on a Changing Rhythm in Himalayan Climbing 🏔️
(French version in comment 🇫🇷)

There’s been a lot of talk lately about rapid ascents and performance enhancements in high-altitude climbing. The recent xenon-assisted climbs are certainly part of a changing landscape in alpinism. I understand the appeal; faster ascents, reduced exposure, greater efficiency ⚡️🧗‍♂️. It may very well be a new chapter 📖.

But in this shift, I can’t help but think about what we miss out 😔.

When you climb over weeks, you don’t just move through altitude... you pass through places, stories, people 🌄🛤️.
You see the sunrise over the ridgeline after a cold night in the tent 🌅⛺.
You stop for tea and share a laugh with the kitchen crew 🍵😊.
You walk through rhododendron forests and wave back at curious children on the trail 🌸.
You get to know your crew members not just as climbers and helpers, but as individuals.
You sing, dance, rest, watch the weather shift...and feel the whole rhythm of a mountain journey unfold 🎶❄️☀️🌧️.

I often emphasize in my talks the virtues of "taking our time" ⏳.

I’m not criticizing new methods, every climber chooses their path.
But for me, these so-called “extra days to cut down” are the very heart of the experience ❤️.
They’re what stay with me long after the summit photo fades 🖼️.

The summit is a moment. But the mountain, the full mountain, is a story 📸➡️📚.

📸 @lisaroosli @dawasangay_ and @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Himalaya #MountaineeringReflections #8000ers #WomenWhoClimb #HighAltitude #BeautyofNepal #ClimbingCulture #laliguras #amrae #GrantAlexander

When Not Climbing, I Share

When Not Climbing, I Share 🗣️📚 (Version française en commentaire)

Mountaineering is a big part of what I do 🧗‍♀️🏔️ — but it’s not the only thing.

Last weekend, I had the opportunity to speak at Les Mystères de l’UNIL 2025 🎤, a major event organized by the University of Lausanne 🇨🇭 exploring the theme of “The Intelligences”. My contribution was on the idea of “Praise of Followership” or the art of knowing how to follow — something I believe is as important as leadership. In the mountains, nothing happens alone. The strength of a team often determines the outcome of an expedition 💪.

Speaking at conferences like this is one of the ways I share what I’ve learned from high-altitude experiences 🏔️📖. It was a full room — about 500 people 👥 — and a rewarding exchange ✨. The session ended with a discussion on high-altitude physiology with Prof. Grégoire Millet, followed by Q&A with journalists 🎙️ and a book signing ✍️📚.

Thanks to Les Mystères, the team at @unilch and @24heures.ch, and @bertrandcarlier_photographe for the amazing photos 📷 — and to everyone who joined 🙏❤️.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #MysteresUNIL #UNIL2025 #theIntelligences #Conferences #Followership #MILLET #MountaineeringAndBeyond #WomenWhoClimb #14x8000

25 May — Everest

📅 25 May — Everest 🏔️ & Cho Oyu 🗻 Summit Memory, and a Tribute to Junko Tabei👑, the Pioneer!

On this day in my expedition logbook:
🗓️ 25 May 2012 — Cho Oyu (8188 m), my second 8000er
🗓️ 25 May 2014 — Everest (8848.86 m), the highest point on Earth🌍

Both were important chapters in my journey, each mountain teaching me lessons I still carry today — about timing⏱️, patience🧘‍♀️, exposure🌬️, and what it means to truly commit💯 to the path upward.

This year, 2025, also marks the 50th anniversary of Junko Tabei’s historic Everest ascent 🏅— the first woman to stand on the summit, in 1975. In 1969, she established the Women’s Mountaineering Club in Japan 🇯🇵 after being denied by male climbers at the time. The club's slogan was "Let's go on an overseas expedition by ourselves." - something that she eventually led by example💪🌍 .

She never wanted to be branded as the First Lady. She was happy to have climbed Everest and be the 36th person to do so. In her own words, 💬 "I did not intend to be the first woman on Everest."

As we reflect on these milestones, I hope all women and girls who seek out the mountains — whether for adventure, discovery, or inner strength — find in Junko’s story, and those that followed, a quiet motivation to keep going and to dare➡️!

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dendi___sherpa & @francois_damilano

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Everest2014 #ChoOyu2012 #JunkoTabei50Years #8000ers #Mountaineering #WomenWhoClimb #Himalaya

Makalu, 23 May — A Day of Ascent and Remembrance

Makalu, 23 May — A Day of Ascent and Remembrance ✨
(French version in comment 🇲🇫)

On this day in 2016, we reached the summit of Makalu (8485 m) 🏔️, the fifth highest mountain in the world. Makalu is truly a giant climb in every sense — steep, exposed, and technically demanding. It was a long summit day: we left Camp 4 at 10 p.m. on 22 May and reached the summit at around 1 p.m. on 23 May. Clear skies ☀️, cold air ❄️, and no wind. The exhaustion led to an indescribable satisfaction at last. I returned to Camp 4 by 5 p.m. with Dorjee Sherpa.

It was my second attempt. A year earlier in 2015, we were caught in the middle of a climb when the devastating earthquake struck in Nepal. We were climbing to Camp 1 when suddenly a series of ice blocks started rumbling down — everywhere, all at once. Luckily no one in the team was hurt. We immediately descended back to the Advanced Base Camp on the same day and agreed in unison to abort the climb. The scale of destruction was hard to comprehend — lives lost, communities shattered 🕊️, and Kathmandu was no longer the same city I had left a few weeks earlier. Today, I pause to think of all those who were affected 🖤. My thoughts remain with the families who lost loved ones .

Makalu reminds me of the tragedy Nepal faced 10 years back and a lifelong climbing lesson — the importance of returning 🧗‍♀️.

📸 @sophie_lavaud and Nima Chhiring Lama

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Makalu #8000ers #Mountaineering #NepalEarthquake2015 #WomenWhoClimb #Himalaya #amrae #grantalexander

Why do we climb at night? One common questio

🌌 Why do we climb at night?

One common question I often hear: why do climbers make their summit push at night? 🤔

The answer is mostly about safety🛡. In the high mountains 🏔️, daytime temperatures can rise quickly, making snow and ice unstable ⚠️. This increases the risk of avalanches and serac collapses.
Sunlight also reflects strongly off the snow — the albedo effect🔆 — which can damage eyes and skin. As temperatures rise during the day, the body also tires faster, and weather patterns tend to become more unpredictable.

At night 🌙, conditions are more stable . The cold keeps the snow and ice firmer underfoot. The risk of collapse is lower. Visibility may be limited, but the benefits outweigh the challenges ✅.

There’s also something to be said about the timing. On a summit push, reaching the top with the first light of the day 🌄 often means witnessing the mountains at their fullest majesty ✨.

For these reasons, night ascents are standard practice in Himalayan climbing 🏔️
📸 @dawasangay_ & @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #WhyWeClimb #8000ers #SummitPush #MILLET #MountaineeringInsights #amrae #grantalexander

May 15 - A Special Day to Celebrate!

May 15 - A Special Day to Celebrate! 🎉🎂 (French version in comment 🇫🇷)

A year ago today, I gracefully received the distinction of Chevalier de l'ordre national du Mérite (Knight of the National Order of Merit) 🎖️ from the French Republic in recognition of my contribution to Alpinism 🏔️.

Sharing this memory today, which also happens to be my birthday 🥳, with a thought — when you commit to something over time, it can create a meaningful ripple in society 🌍✨.

In mountaineering, there are no shortcuts. It is a pursuit grounded in hard work 💪, endurance 🧗‍♂️, consistency 🔁, and selflessness 💙.
Risk is constant ⚠️, the consequences are often fatal, and the process is slow. But when you keep going, recognition eventually arrives — not just in medals, but in how your work is valued and understood 🙌.

Just as the first ascent of Annapurna in 1950 inspired a generation and sparked the golden age of Himalayan climbing, we continue to draw meaning from the mountains — and from those who walk before us 👣.

Thank you 🙏 to all my sponsors, partners, teammates, friends, and family ❤️. Your support has made it possible to keep moving forward ➡️.

Looking ahead to the journeys to come ✨.

📸 @bertrandcarlier_photographe

#Gratitude #Alpinisme #Montagne #OrdreNationalDuMérite #LetsGoSummit #148000ers #Mountaineering #Annapurna2025 #celebration #recognition #transmission

Nanga Parbat’s Kinshofer Wall

Nanga Parbat’s Kinshofer Wall 🏔️
The classic challenge on the Diamir side

For most climbers attempting Nanga Parbat, the Kinshofer Wall is considered the crux of the route — a section that tests a climber's core motivation, often breaking them. 💪

Why wouldn't it? The Kinshofer wall is a 150-meter vertical rock wall 🧗‍♂️ which needs to be climbed with pure strength and endurance. The brutal part is that the wall comes after climbing 1000 meters of steep couloir where you have already spent your energy. You are severely exhausted by the climb and then you have to push through a 150-meter rock wall. That's the classic Kinshofer wall challenge. I remember the frustration I had to deal with on this wall. Even the thought of this wall feels exhausting! 😮‍💨

Interestingly, this was not the original route used in the early ascents of Nanga Parbat. 📚 The first ascent in 1953 followed the Rakhiot Flank on the east side. It was in 1962 that German climber Toni Kinshofer and his team pioneered a safer line on the Diamir Face, avoiding the avalanche-prone center and instead climbing the prominent buttress on the left. The wall has carried his name ever since. 🏅

And even after the wall, the summit push from Camp 3 still rises nearly 1,400 meters — Nanga Parbat is not considered one of the toughest Himalayan giants for nothing. ⛰️

But that’s a story for another day. 📖

📸 @francois_damilano @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #NangaParbat #KinshoferWall #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb #Mountaineering

Back Home — Reflecting on Annapurna IV and the H $Back Home — Reflecting on Annapurna IV and the Himalaya in General Back home now after our Annapurna IV expedition 🏔️ — safe 🙏 and with time to go through the photos and memories from the past weeks 📸. Looking back, I’m revisiting all the lessons from this climb 🧗‍♂️. The mountain was unusually dry, with large fractures and impassable crevasses that forced us to turn back 🔁. And hearing about the recent summit push difficulties elsewhere — including Annapurna I and rope fixing challenges on Everest — I can’t help but relate it to our own experience. It makes me wonder about the broader changes happening in our high mountains 🏔. Especially in 2025, declared the UNESCO International Year of Glacier Preservation 🌐, it feels like the right time for the mountaineering community to pause, reflect, and mobilize 🤝. The effects are frightening 😟 as 2024 was observed as the warmest year on record, and in 2023, glaciers suffered the largest recorded mass loss in five decades. The future of our mountains and glaciers concerns us all — climbers, guides, local communities and beyond 🌎. Thank you for your work and your involvement in this great cause Dr. Heïdi Sevestre & Matthieu Tordeur - Explorateur 📷 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_ #SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #AnnapurnaIV #MountainsMatter #Himalaya #Glaciers2025 #yearofglacierspreservation #UNESCO$

The Khumbu Icefall – A frightening natural

🧊 The Khumbu Icefall – A frightening natural wonder!
➡️Lhotse Expedition 2022

Anyone who knows Everest knows the Khumbu Icefall — a frozen maze of huge seracs, deep crevasses, and shifting ice blocks.❄️
This is one of the most challenging and dangerous sections on the route to Everest and Lhotse from the Nepal side.
Rising between Everest Base Camp (5,300 m) 🏕️ and Camp 1 (6,100 m), this dynamic icefall demands not only technical skill but also precise timing, as the ice constantly shifts and collapses ⚠️
A highly specialized team known by the name "Icefall Doctors" fix this section, placing ladders over the ice blocks every year for the spring expeditions.🪜

On each ladder over a crevasse, a climber can not afford to lose focus or control when crossing between this void. To your surprise, some 40 to 50 of these ladders must be crossed to reach Camp I.
The icefall moves violently under the heat of the day🌡️, thus early morning starts are crucial to minimize exposure to the hazards. This is what we did. Dawa Sangay Sherpa and I moved up the icefall almost midnight 🌙 and this is the reason we never got caught in the climbers' queue.

During my 2022 Lhotse expedition, I remember feeling particularly glad that our team had to make fewer crossings of these ladders as we completed the first rotation in Island Peak 🏞️, familiarizing elevation. We made as lesser crossings of the icefall as possible. This iconic section once again offered moments of awe and intensity — a place where the mountain shows both its beauty and its unpredictability.

Grateful to share these glimpses from the heart of the icefall 🙏💙
📸 @dawasangay_ & @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #KhumbuIcefall #Lhotse2022 #Himalaya #8000ers #WomenWhoClimb #Mountaineering

A special day 🧗‍♀️for special kids 👩🏻from a special school🏠
« Bal Sarathi School »
Volonteers teatchers for underprivileged kids discovering wall climbing!
Smiles and happiness makes a great day for them. Thank you Ludovic for this initiative and with Dawa Sangay and Lhamu Sherpa we enjoyed to belay all of them.
🇳🇵🩷🇳🇵#letsgosummit #sharingknoledge #happiness #wallclimbing #learningbysport

Thank You Dear Sponsors and Partners

Thank You Dear Sponsors and Partners 🙏💙

A heartfelt thanks goes to all our sponsors, partners, and supporters who have been part of this journey. Your backing has been invaluable, and without you, these expeditions would not be possible. 🏔️🤝

The Annapurna IV expedition was a part of a climbing project initiated to honor the pioneers of Himalayan mountaineering 🧗‍♂️🗻—especially the first French Annapurna Expedition (1950) 🇫🇷 on the 75th anniversary of the ascent. Annapurna IV truly is an exceptionally beautiful mountain, and the experience remains special to our team 💫.

Unfortunately, due to safety concerns—particularly a massive crevasse between Camp 2 and Camp 3 we made the decision to terminate the climb for now.
Safety remains our priority ✅

We will return 💪

Thank you 🙏

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #AnnapurnaIV #Expedition2025 #WomenWhoClimb #amrae #GrantAlexander

Annapurna I via the Dutch Ridge Route! On 23

🔙Annapurna I via the Dutch Ridge Route!

On 23 April 2019, @dawasangay_ and I reached the summit of Annapurna I (8091 m), climbing via the Dutch Ridge, a less frequented but more direct variation to reach Camp 3 ⛺️.

The Dutch Ridge, first climbed by the Dutch Annapurna Expedition Team in 1977 🇳🇱, lies to the west (right) of the regular couloir. Despite its steepness, the route offers a more direct line from Camp 2 to Camp 3 compared to the traditional route through the couloir, which is notorious for avalanches ❄️.
In 2019, the conditions at the upper edge of the ridge allowed this variation to be used successfully ✅. Gelje Sherpa was one of the lead fixers of this route variant, and we informally called the route "Gelje Ridge" afterwards.

We left Camp 4 (7000 m) at 10:30 pm on 22 April 🌙 and climbed through the night. It was cold 🥶 with light winds. We reached the summit around 3:15 pm on 23 April, spent about 15 minutes on the summit, and returned safely to Camp 4 by 6:30 pm. Oxygen was used from Camp 4 to the summit and partially on the descent 🫧.

🙏 Thankful for the partnership of Dawa Sangay Sherpa and for the collective effort of all the climbers and Sherpas on the mountain during this window 🫱🏽‍🫲
@gelje_sherpa_

📸 Dawa Sangay Sherpa & Sophie Lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Annapurna #DutchRib #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb #amrae #GrantAlexander

Expedition Update – Annapurna IV Story en

➡️ Expedition Update – Annapurna IV Story ends!🏔️

After several days of illness and recovery in Humde, I was finally able to rejoin the team at Annapurna IV Base Camp (4800 m). Following a short rest, we launched our first acclimatization rotation under good weather conditions ☀️. Our team had already progressed ahead, opening Camp 2 ⛺.

The ascent to Camp 1 involved a mix of steep snow and technical terrain, gaining roughly 500 meters ❄️🧗. While I was recovering, the rest of the team — Ludovic, Robin, Sangay, and Vanessa — worked to secure the route, placing around twenty bolts to support the fixing efforts on this rarely climbed mountain 🔩⛓️. Their initiative will certainly support future teams attempting Annapurna IV 🧭.

After a successful night at Camp 1 🌙, we prepared for the climb to Camp 2. However, over the radio came difficult news: our lead Sherpa team attempting the route toward the shoulder and Camp 3 had to turn back. The route was too dangerous ⚠️. Due to ongoing dry conditions, similar to what we experienced on Cholatse last spring, the mountain was unstable. A massive, vertical wall of exposed ice made the upper section impassable 🚫.

Despite hopes to assess the situation ourselves, it became clear: we would not continue.
The decision was unanimous — safety first ✅.

The expedition has come to an end for now. We leave with respect for the mountain, and perhaps, a plan to return another time ⛰️🩵.

My heartfelt thanks go to our entire team, the sponsors, my friends and family 🙏🫶. Your love and support has given me and the team a huge boost ✨.

Thank you!

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

Base Camp (4820 m) to Camp I (5450 m) - Annapu

📍Base Camp (4820 m) to Camp I (5450 m) - Annapurna IV 🏔️*

The climb from base camp to camp I to describe in a few words will be: interesting, technical 🧗‍♂️ and beautiful 😍.
Our team did an excellent job in fixing the line🙏. @ludo.giambiasi and @dawasangay_ specially put in a great effort by securing the ropes with many balanced bolts 🪢🔩.

It is ~650 meters of a great climb that comes with an amazing view 🌄.
We set up camp I at the northern spur 🏕️. Almost the entirety of the northern flank of Annapurna IV is visible from the campsite and it feels great to climb up with the team 🙌.

📷 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaIV #LetsGoSummit #WomenWhoClimb #HonoringthePioneers #AnnapurnaC1

Base camp Puja and the Annapurna IV Climb begins 🇳🇵🙏 !

✨We held the base camp puja recently—a sacred ritual performed before beginning any climb in the Himalaya. As mountains are believed to be the dwelling places of deities, the Sherpa climbing community offers prayers and seeks blessings for a safe passage. The puja is taken seriously by both Sherpas and climbers, and it marks a meaningful start to the expedition.

Our Liaison Officer has now joined us, and with preparations in place, we begin the climb. The plan is to ascend the north ridge to the western shoulder, and make our way toward the summit. Trailblazing in the Himalaya, especially on a peak like Annapurna IV, is demanding and comes with risk, but we’re ready to proceed🤝.

#SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaIV #LetsGoSummit #WomenWhoClimb #HonoringthePioneers #amrae #GrantAlexander

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