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Khumbu Ice fall : voie d’accès au Lhotse et Everest

24 avril 2022

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Khumbu Ice fall : voie d’accès au Lhotse et Everest

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sophie_lavaud

Mountainer / Speaker / Author
Completed 14 x 8000m ⛰️ | 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇫🇷, 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇨🇦, and 𝟏𝐬𝐭 🇨🇭 woman
🧗 Climbing Annapurna II, III, IV in 2025!

Thank You Dear Sponsors and Partners 🙏💙 A h

Thank You Dear Sponsors and Partners 🙏💙

A heartfelt thanks goes to all our sponsors, partners, and supporters who have been part of this journey. Your backing has been invaluable, and without you, these expeditions would not be possible. 🏔️🤝

The Annapurna IV expedition was a part of a climbing project initiated to honor the pioneers of Himalayan mountaineering 🧗‍♂️🗻—especially the first French Annapurna Expedition (1950) 🇫🇷 on the 75th anniversary of the ascent. Annapurna IV truly is an exceptionally beautiful mountain, and the experience remains special to our team 💫.

Unfortunately, due to safety concerns—particularly a massive crevasse between Camp 2 and Camp 3 we made the decision to terminate the climb for now.
Safety remains our priority ✅

We will return 💪

Thank you 🙏

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #AnnapurnaIV #Expedition2025 #WomenWhoClimb #amrae #GrantAlexander

🔙Annapurna I via the Dutch Ridge Route! On 23

🔙Annapurna I via the Dutch Ridge Route!

On 23 April 2019, @dawasangay_ and I reached the summit of Annapurna I (8091 m), climbing via the Dutch Ridge, a less frequented but more direct variation to reach Camp 3 ⛺️.

The Dutch Ridge, first climbed by the Dutch Annapurna Expedition Team in 1977 🇳🇱, lies to the west (right) of the regular couloir. Despite its steepness, the route offers a more direct line from Camp 2 to Camp 3 compared to the traditional route through the couloir, which is notorious for avalanches ❄️.
In 2019, the conditions at the upper edge of the ridge allowed this variation to be used successfully ✅. Gelje Sherpa was one of the lead fixers of this route variant, and we informally called the route "Gelje Ridge" afterwards.

We left Camp 4 (7000 m) at 10:30 pm on 22 April 🌙 and climbed through the night. It was cold 🥶 with light winds. We reached the summit around 3:15 pm on 23 April, spent about 15 minutes on the summit, and returned safely to Camp 4 by 6:30 pm. Oxygen was used from Camp 4 to the summit and partially on the descent 🫧.

🙏 Thankful for the partnership of Dawa Sangay Sherpa and for the collective effort of all the climbers and Sherpas on the mountain during this window 🫱🏽‍🫲
@gelje_sherpa_

📸 Dawa Sangay Sherpa & Sophie Lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Annapurna #DutchRib #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb #amrae #GrantAlexander

➡️ Expedition Update – Annapurna IV Story en

➡️ Expedition Update – Annapurna IV Story ends!🏔️

After several days of illness and recovery in Humde, I was finally able to rejoin the team at Annapurna IV Base Camp (4800 m). Following a short rest, we launched our first acclimatization rotation under good weather conditions ☀️. Our team had already progressed ahead, opening Camp 2 ⛺.

The ascent to Camp 1 involved a mix of steep snow and technical terrain, gaining roughly 500 meters ❄️🧗. While I was recovering, the rest of the team — Ludovic, Robin, Sangay, and Vanessa — worked to secure the route, placing around twenty bolts to support the fixing efforts on this rarely climbed mountain 🔩⛓️. Their initiative will certainly support future teams attempting Annapurna IV 🧭.

After a successful night at Camp 1 🌙, we prepared for the climb to Camp 2. However, over the radio came difficult news: our lead Sherpa team attempting the route toward the shoulder and Camp 3 had to turn back. The route was too dangerous ⚠️. Due to ongoing dry conditions, similar to what we experienced on Cholatse last spring, the mountain was unstable. A massive, vertical wall of exposed ice made the upper section impassable 🚫.

Despite hopes to assess the situation ourselves, it became clear: we would not continue.
The decision was unanimous — safety first ✅.

The expedition has come to an end for now. We leave with respect for the mountain, and perhaps, a plan to return another time ⛰️🩵.

My heartfelt thanks go to our entire team, the sponsors, my friends and family 🙏🫶. Your love and support has given me and the team a huge boost ✨.

Thank you!

📸 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

📍Base Camp (4820 m) to Camp I (5450 m) - Annapu

📍Base Camp (4820 m) to Camp I (5450 m) - Annapurna IV 🏔️*

The climb from base camp to camp I to describe in a few words will be: interesting, technical 🧗‍♂️ and beautiful 😍.
Our team did an excellent job in fixing the line🙏. @ludo.giambiasi and @dawasangay_ specially put in a great effort by securing the ropes with many balanced bolts 🪢🔩.

It is ~650 meters of a great climb that comes with an amazing view 🌄.
We set up camp I at the northern spur 🏕️. Almost the entirety of the northern flank of Annapurna IV is visible from the campsite and it feels great to climb up with the team 🙌.

📷 @sophie_lavaud & @dawasangay_

#SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaIV #LetsGoSummit #WomenWhoClimb #HonoringthePioneers #AnnapurnaC1

Base camp Puja and the Annapurna IV Climb begins 🇳🇵🙏 !

✨We held the base camp puja recently—a sacred ritual performed before beginning any climb in the Himalaya. As mountains are believed to be the dwelling places of deities, the Sherpa climbing community offers prayers and seeks blessings for a safe passage. The puja is taken seriously by both Sherpas and climbers, and it marks a meaningful start to the expedition.

Our Liaison Officer has now joined us, and with preparations in place, we begin the climb. The plan is to ascend the north ridge to the western shoulder, and make our way toward the summit. Trailblazing in the Himalaya, especially on a peak like Annapurna IV, is demanding and comes with risk, but we’re ready to proceed🤝.

#SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaIV #LetsGoSummit #WomenWhoClimb #HonoringthePioneers #amrae #GrantAlexander

Finally at Annapurna IV Base Camp (4636 m) 🏕️

Finally at Annapurna IV Base Camp (4636 m) 🏕️

After a few days of setback due to a cold, I’ve now rejoined the team at base camp 🙌. The climbing journey begins!

I caught a cold after crossing Kang La Pass 🏞️ — a very long day of gain and descent, and exposure to weather. It gradually worsened, and I had to stay back in Humde 🏘️ to recover, while the rest of the team moved ahead to establish base camp and prepare for the climb.
It’s never easy to stay behind 😔, but this is something mountaineering often requires — patience with the unexpected!

Now that I’ve recovered, I’m especially thankful to @dawasangay_ , who came down to accompany me back to base camp🙏 .
The team is together again✨

The climb begins now! 🚩🏔️

#SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaIV #LetsGoSummit #WomenWhoClimb #HonoringthePioneers

🔙 2017- The Summit Ridge of Broad Peak (8051 m)

🔙 2017- The Summit Ridge of Broad Peak (8051 m) 🏔

The summit ridge of Broad Peak (12th highest 8000er) is among the longest I have undertaken on an 8000er 😅
Upon reaching the fore summit, the length and exposure of the final section becomes clear — it is a serious undertaking to reach the true summit. When we reached the fore summit in 2017, seeing the ridge ahead was overwhelming.

A memorable part of the climb was that Fida Ali, a Pakistani climber and guide 🇵🇰🧗‍♂️, joined our team. He had limited prior experience and was understandably hesitant. I encouraged him to bring his ice axe 🪓, gear up and come along. We crossed the entire ridge together, without fixed ropes and supplemental oxygen💨, and summited on 11 July, 2017😊.
He reached his first 8000-meter summit that day 🏔️👏.

Companionship gives great strength in the mountains🤝💪.

📸@Fida Ali & @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #BroadPeak #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb #Amrae #GrantAlexander

🇳🇵Happy Nepali New Year 2082 🎊 Wishing a

🇳🇵Happy Nepali New Year 2082 🎊

Wishing all my Nepali friends a year of health, peace, and perspective 🙏✨💙

Today marks the start of 2082 in the Nepali calendar (Bikram Sambat), which runs approximately 56.7 years ahead of the Gregorian (Western) calendar. In contrast, many Sherpa families follow the Tibetan calendar, which is lunar-based and celebrates New Year (Losar) in February or March.
Mountaineering in Nepal brings all these timelines together — all coexisting on the same trail.

This is a pleasure to celebrate the Nepali new year in the lap of Annapurna 😊

#SophieLavaud #NewYear2082 #AnnapurnaIV #LetsGoSummit #WomenWhoClimb #AnnapurnaCircuit #chhortens #maniflag #prayerwheel #stupa #buddhistheritage

👉Through the first phase of Annapurna IV 🗻!

👉Through the first phase of Annapurna IV 🗻!

Our team is currently at Shree Kharka (3950 m), and it’s been a steady journey so far.

After a night down in Beshisahar (700 m), we drove up to Koto (2600 m) the next day. Since good acclimatization is essential for Annapurna IV, we chose to take the longer route via the Nar-Phu valley and cross over to Manang only after giving ourselves time to adapt.

From Koto, we trekked to Meta (3560 m), and then continued up the Nar valley. The village of Nar (4200 m) sits quietly on a wide plateau, surrounded by silence and space🌄.
From there, the trail climbs up to Kang La Pass (5300 m) — the highlight of the trek so far.

It was a long day. About 1300 meters of ascent, followed by 1700 meters of descent, over nearly 10 hours.
But the view from the top was something else 😍.
Right in front of us stood Annapurna IV, the mountain we’ve come here for. It’s a rare thing to look straight at the mountain you're planning to climb, so close and so present 🫶

After crossing Kang La, we reached Ngawal (3650 m) and had a quiet celebration. Everyone’s doing their part, and I appreciate the work of our porters and support crew. They’re holding everything together 💪🙏

Caught a bit of a cold after the pass but am recovering well here at Shree Kharka.
The team is in good shape. Hoping to get back on my feet and keep moving 🔛

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #AnnapurnaIV #honoringthepioneers #Annapurna75 #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb #amrae #GrantAlexander

🏔 Gasherbrum II (8035 M) – No oxygen! In 201

🏔 Gasherbrum II (8035 M) – No oxygen!

In 2015, during my ascent of Gasherbrum II without supplemental oxygen, we reached the col before the final slope 💨
From there, the summit looked deceptively close. Confident in the moment, I decided to continue the climb without the use of supplemental oxygen and deposited the bottle at the col.

But as we climbed on, the mountain revealed its truth. Altitude distorts perception — the slope stretched on, steeper and longer than it had appeared. The summit was much farther than expected. It was an exhausting push, but the ascent was eventually successful 💪🏔️

One lesson that has stayed with me from that day: in the mountains, things are rarely as straightforward as they seem. What appears close can be in fact very distant. What seems manageable can become overwhelming. The only way forward is to stay committed and keep moving.
Continuity, not speed or certainty, is often the key to reaching the summit 🆙

📷 @sophie_lavaud

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #GasherbrumII #148000ers #womenwhoclimb #amrae #grantalexander

🔍 Expedition Safety with RECCO® SAR Tech! As

🔍 Expedition Safety with RECCO® SAR Tech!

As the RECCO® Ambassador for Nepal and Pakistan, I’ve been advocating the use of RECCO reflectors in high-altitude expeditions for several years now.

💡RECCO is a SAR technology developed to assist professional rescuers in locating people buried in avalanches or lost in the outdoors. The system consists of a passive reflector, integrated into clothing or gear, and an active detector used by search and rescue teams. Unlike personal locator beacons (PLBs) or GPS trackers, RECCO reflectors require no batteries or activation, making them maintenance-free and always “on.” The detector sends a radar signal that bounces off the reflector and guides rescuers to the precise location—whether under snow, crevasse, or rocky terrain.

Our Annapurna IV team is currently using RECCO reflectors in the Annapurna IV expedition and multiple RECCO detectors have been deployed with contact persons in other mountains of Nepal this spring. In the Himalayan expeditions where access is challenging, RECCO can be an important SAR tool in the broader safety and rescue framework. It does not replace other safety protocols but adds another layer of preparedness for both climbers and rescuers.

👉Recently, we had organized training program with RECCO for Nepali mountain guides and rescue professionals. Nepal joining the global RECCO network looks promising in expedition safety.

📷 @pasang_rinzee

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #RECCO #besearchable #ExpeditionSafety #Himalaya #MountainSafety #AvalancheRescue #Nepal #Pakistan #148000ers

🏔️ Annapurna IV Climbing Companions🇳🇵!

🏔️ Annapurna IV Climbing Companions🇳🇵!
Meet Dawa Sangay Sherpa @dawasangay_ and Dorjee Tundop @dorjee.tondup, our climbing partners on this expedition 👋
Both Dawa and Dorjee together have completed the Aspirant Guide Course and are actively working as mountain guides in Himalaya
🔹Dawa, as known to most of you is my climbing partner for a long time now. He accompanied me in half of my 8000ers pursuit.
🔹Dorjee too is a promising climber who is joining us as his first time to gain experience on guiding. He is a Ladakhi and in fact is the first Aspirant guide from Ladakh. This is a really nice opportunity for him as an Indian to gain experience in a Nepali mountain. I'm sure he'll make the best of his trainings and abilities on this expedition.

Overall, it is a great pleasure to have these two on our expedition 🙏

#sophielavaud #letsgosummit #AnnapurnaIV #honoringthepioneers #Annapurna75 #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb

↔️ Shishapangma – 11 Years Apart! In 2012,

↔️ Shishapangma – 11 Years Apart!

In 2012, Shishapangma was my first 8000er — the beginning of a climbing journey that turned out to be much longer than I ever imagined… and it’s still going!

11 years later, I completed my 14x8000ers journey, and after all that time, I found myself back on Shishapangma.
Shishapangma, the 14th 8000er forms a part of the Langtang Himal range but is located in Tibet. In 2012, I had climbed the central summit (8012 m) and when I decided to do the 14 peaks, 11 years later, I went for the main summit at 8027 meters 🏔️.

A lot has changed in these 11 years - both on the mountain and within me. The mountains have become much drier, darker, snowless, exposed and thus, much more dangerous. Not just in Shishapangma but almost everywhere in the Himalaya that I've witnessed the snow cover depleting every year, glaciers melting at an accelerated rate. This is a sad reality 😢.

Over the years, I’ve learned the art of prioritizing, solving problems, building mental fortitude, and being present in the moment. Mountains have a way of teaching things, you just have to be patient and disciplined enough to listen 🙏.

#SophieLavaud #LetsGoSummit #Shishapangma #148000ers #WomenWhoClimb

Pic 1: Traverse up the main summit
Pict 2: Summit Selfie with climbing guide @Nima Sherpa

Boudhanath - A site close to my heart in Kathmandu

Boudhanath - A site close to my heart in Kathmandu ❤

One of the most important heritages of Buddhism, Boudhanath stupa is believed to safeguard the remains of Kassapa and Shakyamuni Buddha. Located on the ancient trade route from India to Tibet, many Indian/Tibetan tranders and merchants used to rest in Kathmandu, by Boudhanath, pray and make their journey.

I have always felt peace and a deep spiritual experience in every visit. Boudhanath is my favorite place in Kathmandu and this is around where I have been staying for the last 15 years 😊

#sophielavaud #LetsGoSummit #boudhanath #kathmandu

Did you know? 🤔 When the first French Annapurna

Did you know? 🤔
When the first French Annapurna team crossed Tilicho Pass to inner Manang valley in 1950, they ran into someone unexpected: Bill Tilman, the legendary British explorer🌍
He was in the valley, scouting the northern approach to Annapurna IV 🗻

His expedition didn’t reach the summit, but they traced the line that would become the Northwest Ridge—the same route used today.

There are so many incredible, lesser-known stories in the Annapurna range. This spring, our climb of Annapurna IV (7525 M) is a tribute to these early pioneers—the ones who opened paths few have walked since. 🌟

📍 Just arrived in Nepal 🇳🇵… 🤗
If you have any questions about the climb or the project, I’d love to hear them! 🙋‍♀️

#LetsGoSummit #SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaIV #HonoringThePioneers #TheOtherAnnapurnas #8000erSophie #amrae #grantalexander

Announcement: there are other Annapurnas 🗻! Wh

Announcement: there are other Annapurnas 🗻!

When Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal stood atop Annapurna I, they did more than just claim the first ascent of an 8000er — they marked the beginning of the golden age of Himalayan mountaineering ✨📌
Herzog famously ended "Annapurna: Premier 8000" with the phrase, "there are other Annapurnas."

That phrase took on new meaning for me in 2020, standing atop Pisang Peak, gazing at the vast Annapurna range. It was in that moment that the idea of The Other Annapurnas began to take shape.🤩

In 2025, to mark the 75th anniversary of the first ascent of Annapurna I, I am undertaking a special climbing project: The Other Annapurnas, attempting to climb as a start Annapurna IV.
This is my way of honoring the pioneers who paved the way for modern Himalayan exploration.🙏🫶

More details coming soon! 😉🔜

*************
🇫🇷Annonce : Il y a d’autres Annapurnas 🗻!

Lorsque Maurice Herzog et Louis Lachenal se sont dressés au sommet de l’Annapurna I, ils n’ont pas seulement réussi la première ascension d’un 8000, ils ont marqué le début de l’âge d’or de l’alpinisme himalayen. ✨📌
Herzog l'avait d'ailleurs annoncé au retour "Annapurna : Premier 8000" en terminant son annonce par "il y a d’autres Annapurnas."

Cette phrase a pris un nouveau sens pour moi en 2020, au sommet du Pisang Peak, contemplant la vaste chaîne de l’Annapurna. C’est à ce moment-là que l’idée de "The Other Annapurnas" a commencé à prendre forme🤩

En 2025, pour marquer le 75e anniversaire de la première ascension de l’Annapurna I, un projet d’ascension : The Other Annapurnas, en tentant de gravir comme point de départ l’Annapurna IV.
Avec toute l équipe, une façon d’honorer les pionniers qui ont ouvert la voie à l’exploration moderne de l’Himalaya 🙏🫶

Plus de détails à venir! 😉🔜

#SophieLavaud #AnnapurnaTrilogy #TheOtherAnnapurnas #Annapurna75 #8000ersophie #LetsGoSummit #the112000lady
#HonoringThePioneers #8000erSophie #amrae #GrantAlexander

Happy International Women's Day! 🌍✨ “For A

Happy International Women's Day! 🌍✨
“For ALL Women and Girls: Rights. Equality. Empowerment.” 💕👩🏻👧🧑🏻‍🦰👱🏻‍♀️🧕🏼💕

Today, I want to take a moment to celebrate all the incredible female adventurers who have paved the way in mountaineering and exploration. 🏔️

From Marie Paradis, the first woman to summit Mont Blanc in 1808 🏞️, to Junko Tabei, who made the first female ascent of Everest in 1975 🏔️.
From Fanny Bullock Workman, who not only set altitude records but also championed women's rights in 1912 📝💪, to @kristin.harila , who rewrote history by summiting all 14 peaks in just 91 days in 2023 🗻⏱️!

Mountains do not discriminate — but history has. Women in mountaineering have had to fight for recognition, sponsorship, and opportunities. Yet, every step taken by these pioneers has made the path a little easier for those who follow. 💫👣

To every woman pushing her limits — whether in the mountains, in sports, or in life, your strength inspires the world 🌟
Keep climbing, keep breaking barriers! 🔝🏔️

Who are the women in adventure that inspire you the most? 🌄💖

📷 @dawasangay_

#InternationalWomensDay #WomenInMountaineering #LetsGoSummit #8000erSophie #letsgosummit #SophieLavaud #SummitWithSophie #148000er

The summit is only halfway! 🏔️ Reaching the

The summit is only halfway! 🏔️

Reaching the top is just one part of the journey — the real challenge often begins on the way down⬇️
The margin for error is razor-thin when exhaustion sets in after hours of summit push, and the safety of the tent below feels both close and impossibly far 😓

As I descended down from the summit of Cholatse 🇳🇵 (6440 m) in 2024, which is not a very high mountain in the Himalayas but is technically difficult, peaks like these require every step with precision
⚠️ A climber only truly succeeds when they return safely—because every summit push is only halfway there 🧗‍♂️

You can see the tents below 🏕️
As a mountaineer, the sight of tents from a long arete high afar is soothing. There's home! 💙

📸 @sophie_lavaud: @dawasangay_ descending from summit to camp 1.

#letsgosummit #SophieLavaud #Cholatse #ExpeditionReflections #8000ersophie #MountaineeringMindset #SummitWithSophie #148000er

"At 8,000m, the difference between success and fai

"At 8,000m, the difference between success and failure is often just a few degrees of temperature, a shift in the wind, or a moment of hesitation."
Mountaineering is about balance between pushing forward and knowing when to turn back⚖️

🔙In 2018, I had to retreat from 130 meters short of the summit. It wasn't an easy decision to make. During the third attempt in 2019, we had to make a decision again!
On our summit push, we reached Camp 2, but high winds delayed the rope-fixing, forcing climbers to make difficult choices. While some remained at C2, we decided to move up to C3 and then C4, enduring two nights at extreme altitude before making our final push💥.
In the end, @dawasangay_ and I reached the summit😅💪.
But in the mountains, success is never guaranteed — it is a result of preparation, adaptation, and trust in the moment.

📸@dawasangay_

#letsgosummit #Kanchenjunga2019 #SophieLavaud #ExpeditionReflections #8000ersophie #MountaineeringMindset #SummitWithSophie #148000ers

As we approach the end of January 2025, looking ba

As we approach the end of January 2025, looking back to 2024, a fabulous year ✨ !

🔹MERCI Sponsors and partners, without you none of this would be possible.

🔹MERCI Dawa Sangay Sherpa and the teams around us

🔹MERCI A film, a book, a partnership and friendship with François Damilano and the production and publishing companies.

🔹MERCI Recognition and celebration!

A busy, intense year, just the way I like it😊!

The mountains: an eternal source of inspiration! MERCI 🏔️

#reylintesasanpaolo #amrae #futura21
#beautifulyear #letsgosummit #moutain #LEDERNIERSOMMET#les148000deSophieLavaud

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